Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just moved to sydney in early Jan and I will be bringing my car down in march/april.

I just need to know all the things I need to do to get it rego'd to NSW.

And my veh is fairly modded so thats going to be a prob?

thanx guys.

I just moved to sydney in early Jan and I will be bringing my car down in march/april.

I just need to know all the things I need to do to get it rego'd to NSW.

And my veh is fairly modded so thats going to be a prob?

thanx guys.

I believe all you need to do is go into the RTA and pay for the transfer of registration. hundred bucks or so i think

well i have done WA to sydney transfer, and you need to go and get a pink slip, green slip then you can go and pay your rego. you may have to get a blue slip. best to look it up on the NSW RTA site, or ring them.

Taken from RTA Webpage

Second-hand vehicles (interstate)

To establish registration for a second-hand vehicle purchased interstate, you will need to go to a motor registry and provide:

*Proof of your identity (see related link above right) or, if registering the vehicle in the name of a company, proof of company name and the ACN/ARBN number.

*Proof of acquisition (eg a receipt for purchase of the vehicle, certificate of registration signed by the previous registered operator/s of the vehicle, or the previous certificate of registration in the same name if coming from interstate).

*Proof of your residential address (see related link above right).

*A valid Compulsory Third Party insurance policy – also known as a green slip – with the number plate section blank (not required for trailers).

*An inspection report – also known as a blue slip – from an Authorised *Unregistered Vehicle Inspection Station (AUVIS). If there is no AUVIS in your area, you can get a pink slip from an Authorised Inspection Station (AIS) instead of the blue slip.

*Your interstate number plates – you'll have to surrender your interstate plates before you'll be given NSW plates.

*Evidence of eligibility for any concession (see related links to Pensioner concessions and Apprentice registration rebate above right).

*A completed Application for Registration form.

*Payment for registration, including stamp duty (3% of the vehicle's purchase price, 5% if more than $45,000) and applicable number plate fee.

All second-hand vehicles requesting establishment of registration (including interstate and imported vehicles) may be selected for an additional inspection by the RTA's vehicle identity unit. You will be notified at the time of registration if you are selected.

It's not too hard..

Just make sure incase something does come up.. you have sufficient rego left on the QLD plates to keep putting around (if u dont have any other cars). For example, don't leave it to the day before to rego it.. becuase as far as I know you get a refund on ur plates.

When i got my car from VIC, It still had rego until May this year.. So I had to send the receipt of the plates to VICRoads and I got a refund.

It's not too hard..

Just make sure incase something does come up.. you have sufficient rego left on the QLD plates to keep putting around (if u dont have any other cars). For example, don't leave it to the day before to rego it.. becuase as far as I know you get a refund on ur plates.

When i got my car from VIC, It still had rego until May this year.. So I had to send the receipt of the plates to VICRoads and I got a refund.

Yeah Kool thats what I will do. QLD rego comes up in June so I should have some time but If not I'll pay another 6months on the QLD rego to buy me more time.

Anyway Thanx mate.

hey red.

i work with naomi.

are you sorted with this or you still need some assistance?

G'day James Hows things going with the New Line?

Anyway I am not as worried about it as I was earlier this week but I think I will be right from all the advise from everyone.

Thanx guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...