Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when driving, the rear of my car tends to turn at an angle as you're driving straight, but it's only really noticable in the wet.

when i make turns at high speed in the wet the car sometimes feels uncontrollable and dangerous, like it can't follow the corner through and shakes.

it definitely feels like there's something wrong in the back somewhere, i was thinking maybe rear swaybar, hicas or even bushes

someone please help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104803-unstable-rear-of-car/
Share on other sites

when driving, the rear of my car tends to turn at an angle as you're driving straight, but it's only really noticable in the wet.

when i make turns at high speed in the wet the car sometimes feels uncontrollable and dangerous, like it can't follow the corner through and shakes.

it definitely feels like there's something wrong in the back somewhere, i was thinking maybe rear swaybar, hicas or even bushes

someone please help

Have you had all the wheels aligned?

As above.Looks like hicas fluid stop the leak and lock it..prolly only a gasket.

While ur there rear strut brace for fun times.works a treat at high speed cornering predictability.Are you still on the stocker tyres?if yes then dissregard what i said.you need low profile tyres imo to really feel it's difference.

A more soild rear end on huge sidewall aka stockers, can make the back end feel uneasy at high speeds.

I noticed that you have the cooling veins on your diff housing.Cool.

cool thanks heaps guys i'll lock that bastard up, i never liked it anyway.

its got 275s all round so it tramlines a bit everynow and then and with the hicas going crazy, it feels pretty shite.

yeh i guess the fins must be a gtr thing.

does anyone know if there's a reservoir for the hicas?

does anyone know if there's a reservoir for the hicas?

Yes there is.

I recall reading something a while ago that this problem appears if you have re-connected the battery while the wheels were not in the straight ahead position. Just my vague recollection.

Yes there is.

I recall reading something a while ago that this problem appears if you have re-connected the battery while the wheels were not in the straight ahead position. Just my vague recollection.

is it the one in the boot? where the jack sits but on the other side? does anyone know how to make hicas centred?

  • 2 weeks later...
umm straight? noob when it comes to that stuff.

the tyres are pretty new only a few months old

something is leaking at the back though, i saw this today, looks like the diff is leaking could this be the cause?

Dsc01720.jpg

hi

one of the air bleed nipples for the attesa is above there, if you have lost all your attesa fluid you will have a rwd car so in the wet she wont handle so good. the attesa pump is up there above the diff too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...