Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I saw this boost controller on the Hikari website and a few others, yet i havent found any other info on them in regards to how they preform compared to the way more expensive Jap brands. FYI Hikari are sellin them for 320. Thats a fully electronic Dual stage boost controller that has in cabin control. Seems to good to be true. It also looks quite nice and looks like it would fit snug in the position of the ash tray (which is good as im not a smoker).

If anyone can shed any light on this product whether its reliable and how it preforms, etc, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

http://www.hikariperformance.com/new_electronics.htm

(scroll rite to the bottom)

elect%20boost%20cont.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10481-hybrid-electronic-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

I was told but am not 100%sure that they are like a electronic version of the turbosmart type 2 stage bleed valve setup, so they are not as accurate as controlling boost like good elec ones they just give you control in the cabin.

They are nothing like the TS twin stage they do run a micro processor

seen in two cars now work well but you need to have a map sensor of some type ..... like you need to tap into say the std dash map on r32/33 but on somthing like a s13 you'll need to hunt a map sensor down

I sent power digger an email.

Heres what i sent:

Hi

I wondering if you could supply me with as much info as u can on the Hybrid fully electronic boost controller. How does it work through the microprocessor? Is it like an AVCR, or not as indepth and efficient. Will it hold high boost levels, and will the boost levels spike due to it being a bleed valve type boost controller. Im very serious on buying one, just want more info before i make my decision.

Thanks

Dean

And heres his reply

thanks for your interest it has a micro built in and by sensing the boost signal the micro calculate the right boost amount

in other words it try to bring the boost up to preset level as soon as possible and soon after it reaches the preset boost it regulated it

never over shoot

beside it is not a bleed type valve it is a proper 9 bar solenoid valve that uses in many other Japanese boost controller

Thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

I have installed the hybrid boost controller. I have to say it was the easiest ebc install(just three wires, the same three that run to the factory boost reciever in the engine bay) i have ever done!!

Very easy to tune, just set the dials for hi/low boost.

On the road it holds boost and at 20psi is only only slightly shaking the needle on the boost gauge (not more than half a psi either way.

As for brining boost on earlier I noticed a little differance

install 9/10

tunability 10/10

boost holding 8/10 (twin solonoid would have been better)

Appearance 4/10 (only one blue led and no screen as per avcr)

All in all not bad for $325 delivered

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi There,

I also noticed the "powerdigger" at UAS (for $380).

Seems like a really good buy.

Quick question for those who have installed it.

- Does the car fill "jerky" when on full boost as some one mentioned that is was changing half a psi up and down (at 20 psi).

I am only planing to run 12 psi, will I notice it? How smooth is it under boost?

- when it comes to installing it, where is the "map sensor" or "boost sensoe" what ever it is called... I should have no problems installing it just need to find that boost sensor (for an R33 gts-t)

Thanks for your answers.

Regards

Rob

Hi Rob the car is not jerky when on boost, even though the boost needle is moving. When you get the intstructions it has a picture of the boost sensor and how to wire it all up. The boost sensor should be on the left hand side of the firewall. easy to spot if you know what your looking for.:)

If anyone else has installed one please write your comments, as I wonder if it is any differant on a smaller tubo, unlike mine which has a fair bit of lag.????

Ps go to hikari they are $325 delivered

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...