Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have 9 rb30's most of them I have got for free or under $100 dollars!!! You just have to wait for them to come to you, its like when you don't have a missus all the ladies are not interested but when you do have a girlfriend a girl that you have loved for 10 years comes up and says she likes you(damn), if you appear deperate the rb30's will be hard to find let them land in your lap is my experience!!!hahaha

Just do it, there arent to many circumstances where I would recommend against a rb30 and for you inteded purposes you will love the 3rd gear power burns!!!!!

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

When too much torque is never enough.......

You can always de-tune a motor. It's a far better way to go than having to tune harder to get the same power. Rb30 would be quite easy, just pull some timing in the right spots hey presto you have the curve you can live with.

I so far have not seen any posts in years about how easy it is to tune power 'out' of a motor on purpose. So many people tune the hell out of their engine first and then struggle to get the thing to stay on the road under throttle. Your right foot is also a wonderfull power and torque controller, I call it the first line of traction control.

That makes sense...but seriously, isnt it like buying a 30 tonne crane to lift the engine out of the car? Sure it will do it with ease, but the initial expense only not to use what you have built/bought to capacity????

So if you wind igntion out of the engine so that its a bit flatter and more driveable...whats the difference between usng the available ignition and getting the power out of a 2.5L???

As for right foot, unfortunately mine isnt engaged to my brain, so whilst torque may win races, my experience of a few cars i have been in also means it fries tyres...so somewhere/somehow there must be a compromise.

I think we all need to remember that primarily we are driving road cars here...

...and im not trying to say RB30s arent ay good. Its just that from what very little experience i have with them is that its the torque that everyoenis chasing that makes them break traction...i dotn understand why the opposite is generally claimed. Take a 230rwkws RB20 that hooks up fine, and either a 180rwkws RB30 or 220rwkws RB30 and they seem more willign to break traction

If you find its too savage another method to prevent wheel spin is to take advantage of the torque and drop a higher diff ratio in it.

There's plenty to choose from from VL style ratio's right up through the 3.7's, 3.9's 4.08, 4.11, 4.363 and also 4.6

Here in Adelaide RB30's are everywhere for ~$100-$200.

I have 2 sitting in the shed.. One has a bad gudgen but in otherwise perfect condition.

Just as a comparison.. Tractive effort.. Torque..

Mine making ~190-200rwkw has the same tractive effort as an Rb25 making 313rwkw, being ~390-395nm.

An Rb30det making ~312rwkw makes ~540nm. Huge difference.

There appears to be one downside with the rb30det... If you plan on running the stock exh. manifold expect your rev range to be limited and power to begin dropping off over ~5500rpm.

It would hopefully also pick up fuel economy... Possibly.

Since the tune and new clean injectors I'm getting awesome fuel economy in the order of 10.6L/100km's.. Just the injectors and a new o2 sensor prior to the tune saw 11.1L/100km's.

I personally think the diff solution is a bit of a bummer...

Piston speed to road speed, raise the ratio high enough and it will have the same torque getting to the rear wheels as an rb25 or even rb20 maybe. :S

Fairly pointless, especially if you stuck with the stock exh. manifold that restricts rev's a little. :D

the rb30was a gift .... its just the simplist bang for buck and has all but superceeded the car it was released in as far as parts available and development gains ...

there is a massive aftermarket following much cheaper per HP gained Vs dollar than any of the other Rbs as far as bolt on parts now and i believe because of this!!!!

i have had all of them now and although the rb26 is tuff when fresh i dread working on it as apposed to the old 3 litre dime a dozen....

That makes sense...but seriously, isnt it like buying a 30 tonne crane to lift the engine out of the car? Sure it will do it with ease, but the initial expense only not to use what you have built/bought to capacity????

So if you wind igntion out of the engine so that its a bit flatter and more driveable...whats the difference between usng the available ignition and getting the power out of a 2.5L???

As for right foot, unfortunately mine isnt engaged to my brain, so whilst torque may win races, my experience of a few cars i have been in also means it fries tyres...so somewhere/somehow there must be a compromise.

I think we all need to remember that primarily we are driving road cars here...

Roy,

You can tune torque in or out of the motor very easy, hell you can make a power curve to any shape that suits your traction issue fancy. The fact is the Rb25 may not ever get the kind of torque you would really like where you want it the way an RB30 can.

You tell a good tuner what power you want and when and they will most often do it for you, it's not that hard. Most people unfortunately just walk in and say 'power'. Think about this next time you get a dyno tune, the easy way is with a 2 stage boost setting or even better a dial that operates between two settings seamlessly.

I think Im going to look for an RB30 block this wkd, lol, have been offered the timing belt and other parts already! Guy thats offering is a mechanic at local Nissan dealer, hmmmm, food for thought!

I'm thinking of going the cheap way -

Get a RB30 block

Re-Ring and hone it with the standard pistons

New Big End Bearings

Drop my Head on

Drop the sub frame 15mm

Bolt the other bits back on..

Drop it back in the car

Grab a wideband o2 sensor...and go for a street tune (do it myself because we seem to have rip off tuners here in mackay)

If I had a bit of extra cash, I'd balance the crank and shot peen the rods.

How much boost can standard RB30 pistons take?

It's more to do with how well it's tuned and being careful, if you push them a bit far on the dyno or something, they will just shatter and that will be the end of it, while forgies or something will be more forgiving.

But yeah, plenty of people run them with success so go for it I reckon. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...