Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See the below pic, anyone have these on their GTR - the bit from the front lower lip to the wheel well...

Are they are factory part, or are they a Nismo part??

I don't have em, and want a pair :D

Please enlighten me

I figured that you could duct them to the brakes...

cheerio :D

Untitled-1.jpg

I was actually looking at not having such a dramatic change in cross sectional area along the length of th educts...as i thought doing so may cause turbulence at the inlet and hurt flow...albeit it would increase the velocity of air...

No doubt Nissan no more then me. :) But looking at race cars, after having a large throat to capture air, they typically maintain a similar cross sectional area, even if they do go freom rectangular passage to 80mm flex duct.

My undertray also goes to just in front of the steering rack...if you want one should be a bolt on between GTST and GTR once i am sure the ducting works (LOL, bring on Sandown)

I have them on my GTR....well i have one now! The other one ripped off as i had to drive somewhere without a front bar (cooler hose blew off and i was already 1hr late). I dont think the cable ties held it well enough. I was thinking of going proper ducting like V8 supercar style instead of using these. Otherwise i gotta find one more!

My 89 has them.  Looking at FAST suggests they are standard part for JDM spec R32 GTR's

I should add that my car also has a curved rubber 'defelector' attached to each of the tension (castor) rods, which directs air from the ducts onto the back face of the brake disc through a hole in the backing plate. These also appear to be a standard JDM R32 GTR part.

I doubt that it's particularly effective, but better than nothing.

I was actually looking at not having such a dramatic change in cross sectional area along the length of th educts...as i thought doing so may cause turbulence at the inlet and hurt flow...albeit it would increase the velocity of air...

i think the intention here was to have them double as pie coolers. pie too hot? place in front of duct, drive for 2 minutes then remove. perfecto. the reduced cross sectional area stops said pie from entering brake rotor - messy.

Edited by Scooby

My R32 V-Spec II has them, but I have only kept to the tow point of the factory part, cut the rest off, installed a PCV downpipe section to convert the 4"x1.5" duct into a round 3.5" duct and run heat tollerent flexi ducting back to the rotor centre.

The item on my car that isn't in that pic is an extra air guide on the castor rods... again, cut and shut the air guide and its now just a bracket that the ducting is braced to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...