Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
:D

108952_18mg.jpg

Sorry to dig up an old thread.

The pic above, will that be enough to provide decent cooling using the factory ducts and the deflectors mounted to the lower arms?

I've got the front bumper off my R32 GT-R at the moment, doing some mods and was wondering whether anyone cuts through the inner guard to provide more airflow into the wheel well using the two horizontal slots that are either side of the main intake opening on the front bumper?

I'm sure I've seen at least one fast R33 GT-R at the track use this method (used plastic mesh similar to what you put over a gutter to keep leaves out etc to go over the hole).

I've attached a pic showing where I am talking about. I tried searching the forum but found minimal info about this type of thing. I'm presuming no one really does it because it's not worth it?

post-17881-1241666641_thumb.jpg

Thanks mate, I've got the undertray ducts and have recently ordered deflectors for the arms. Looking forward to your solution! :D

Did you order Nissan deflectors or the ones from Unique Autosports?

It shouldn't be too hard to bash something together with aluminium plate & strap it onto the castor rod/LCA?

I cannot for the life of me remember if these ones are stock or aftermarket. The appear to have a couple of holes to use where the castor rod meets the LCA.

post-5134-1241673487_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1241673498_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81

Wow this thread is old! since then I've bought a set of the genuine nissan caster rod reflectors, because I am limited to standard parts.

The ones that UAS make and similar are cheaper and better than the nissan ones.

Wow this thread is old! since then I've bought a set of the genuine nissan caster rod reflectors, because I am limited to standard parts.

The ones that UAS make and similar are cheaper and better than the nissan ones.

Yeah sorry for that, it was either make a new thread or continue on with something that was kind of related to what I was after :D

DJR81, I haven't received them yet, will take pics and post them up once they arrive and are fitted.

Yeah sorry for that, it was either make a new thread or continue on with something that was kind of related to what I was after :D...

absolutely no problems, I love when someone searches and looks at what was said before instead of starting from scratch every time.

It was actually from this thread years ago that I found out that the caster rod deflectors are standard (n1) and so they are legal for me to run on the race car. I ordered them about a year ago out of japan (very hard to find and possibly nil stock with nissan now) and put them on. Can't really tell if they made a difference as I changed multiple things at the same time.

But locally made ones are larger and cheaper anyway.

Did you order Nissan deflectors or the ones from Unique Autosports?

It shouldn't be too hard to bash something together with aluminium plate & strap it onto the castor rod/LCA?

I cannot for the life of me remember if these ones are stock or aftermarket. The appear to have a couple of holes to use where the castor rod meets the LCA.

the ones you pictured are the nismo ones for R32 GTR. they were fibreglass or FRP maybe, and were about triple the size of the stock ones. the stock R32 ones were rubber and are in that parts diagram posted above. I think the stock castor rod deflector ones were only on nismo 32s, v specs and v spec IIs, and N1s. but all cars had the ducts under the bar that bolt to the front lip holes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...