Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Ummm i think you made an error?  You need to know about an RB25 in the title, then you ask about an RB30 which you have a manual about...

na mate, rb30Det

its got a rb25 head. There for rb25 head torque settings

and it is the turbo head, not the non turbo head...

-Tom

Edited by kossak
hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

rocker cover screws i assumed didnt really matter, but still, i wannna try n do it rite if i can.

as for the head bolts

wtf is vrs kit? (im a n00b stuggleing to put together a engine) -im assuming it is the headgasket kit??? if it is i got a complete head gasket kit from nissan so no torque setting there. Also what about the intake and zorst manifolds then?

doesnt ne1 here have a 33 workshop manual or at least hav a link to an online 1 (that is free)

-Tom

  • 13 years later...
On 2/8/2006 at 9:02 PM, The Dan said:

Here

post-10554-1139403582.jpg

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

6 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

Correct

it is done this way to “bed in” the threads to ensure a more accurate clamp load

 

 

 

OK so, things are progressing well. My torque wrench proved unreliable at low torque settings so was fortunate enough to have a good mate loan me a Sidchrome precision torque wrench , what a beauty of a tool to use! 

I did the initial 3 passes , so now they are all loose waiting for the final tightening. 

My question is: Who uses the angle measurement tool for the final tightening? I am not adverse to buying one considering they are pretty cheap, or just dummying something up with cardboard and something to hold it in place with. 

Is a torque wrench enough, or do you need the angle of the dangle?

 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the spec on the bolts is torque, use torque. if the spec on the bolts is angle, use angle. Accept no substitutes.

Except in the wokshop manual screenshot above where it gives both :p.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...