Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost.

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

so it can take it..

Thanks Craved, definetly sounds similar to what i'm looking for out of my engine - but i didn't know the rb25 could take that much power with relatively high boost because of the 9:1 compression, which is comparitively higher than the other turbo nissans. How long has your car been like that for, and with the big turbo and airflow meter do you get any reversion problems with idle etc when clutching from above 3000rpm. The reason I ask is because I had a high mount turbo on my ca18 with an s-afc, with a short stainless pipe connecting the AFM to the turbo. And when i'd slowly wind any gear out (with or without boost) and then have to go to neutral for a red light or whatever, the cars idle would hunt like a mofo, even stall on the rare occasion. This could possibly be due to the piggyback nature of the s-afc as opposed to the standalone power fc i've got planned.

Cheers

Hey Tuna,

I will let you know how mine goes. Power FC, injectors, cams, GT3540(better match apparently than 3040 with no worse lag), fuel pump, 48mm pro-gate, split dump with removable pipe to screamer.  All getting done currently and should be ready early april.

Cheers

JB :)

Hey JB,

DEFINITELY let me know how your r33 goes with that combination :P sounds absolutely awesome.. I might even lean towards a similar turbo to that if it works well top end:response wise. But I gotta keep myself in check. Its cool for the skylines to make this much power becuase they are very stable and well built cars, but im planning this kind of a setup in a 180sx, so its gonna be a 4-lane job when i put the boot into it :lol:

The best thing is the looks you get from the sr20 powered s13's s14's and s15's.. If you look closely you can pinpoint when the penny drops

First you get the ;) look, then :P and then finally :rolleyes:

B)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys, it made that power but it sure-as-shit didn't make it for long...especially the way Brett used to rape it. :D

exactly.

Thanks for clarification :(

HypeR33 - what spec if the gt35? Its just no possible to have a bigger turbo of the same family coming on as good as its smaller cousin

exactly.

Thanks for clarification  :P

Thereis always more to a story...and from what i understand the engine was happy at that power...dramas only startedwhen they leant onit further with fuel and tuning?????????????????????????????????????

Thanks Craved, definetly sounds similar to what i'm looking for out of my engine - but i didn't know the rb25 could take that much power with relatively high boost because of the 9:1 compression, which is comparitively higher than the other turbo nissans. How long has your car been like that for, and with the big turbo and airflow meter do you get any reversion problems with idle etc when clutching from above 3000rpm. The reason I ask is because I had a high mount turbo on my ca18 with an s-afc, with a short stainless pipe connecting the AFM to the turbo. And when i'd slowly wind any gear out (with or without boost) and then have to go to neutral for a red light or whatever, the cars idle would hunt like a mofo, even stall on the rare occasion. This could possibly be due to the piggyback nature of the s-afc as opposed to the standalone power fc i've got planned.

Cheers

only been making that power for a few months now, and i havent been driving it all that much to be honest. my current wastegate is faulty and has some eratic boost pressures running through the engine because of it. so its not something i have been pushing til i get the new one and know for sure that only 18psi is going to run through it...

i do get the issue of stalling since im running a atmo bov, havent been arsed to work out a plumb back system with the aftermarket plenum... but thats an easy situation to resolve with some taps of the right foot.

known a few cars that run up near 18psi on smaller turbos and only making 240-250rwkw so it really looks like the bigger turbos are able to give the engine the extra air they need without pushing the limits of boost and the CR.. that said i am sure the cometic metal gaskets dont change the CR at all, but are more likely to hold up with a little more puishment than the std ones.

i ran an rb25 in my vl.... had

masterpower T70 tubo, 38mm turbosmart gate on screamer, gtr injectors, 800hp fuel pump, GReddy plenum, szr throttle body, microtech ltx8, 3.5" from turbo back, el falcon coils, 600x300x90 frontmount......

360.8hp or 268rwkw on only 13psi, have dyno sheet to prove.

i was told in order to correctly lower the CR in an rb25 you had to O-Ring the block. Not sure whether this is true though..

Those two things are not really related. Getting the combustion chamber machined is the best way to lower the CR but a thick head gasket is cheaper and easier.

And regarding the comment about GT-RS being suited to SR20's. The GT-RS that goes on an SR20 is not the same GT-RS that goes on an RB25. It's smaller.

If I didn't blow my stock turbo and and get the GCG hiflow rebuild I would have got the GT-RS. I think it's a great match. Of course now I drool over the 2835 with the 0.87 rear housing.

255rwkw with cams at 0.9 bar in an auto says a lot for this turbo but it's not for everyone. Don't forget that the R34 has a larger rear housing than the R33.

Hey Tuna,

I will let you know how mine goes. Power FC, injectors, cams, GT3540(better match apparently than 3040 with no worse lag), fuel pump, 48mm pro-gate, split dump with removable pipe to screamer.  All getting done currently and should be ready early april.

Cheers

JB :rofl:

And right there (APRIL) is a prime example of why so many people go for the GCG Ball Bearing high flow option. Forget 2 months, more like 2 days.

:D cheers :O

PS; not picking on HypeR33, he has a realistic time frame.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...