Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost.

BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years!

so it can take it..

Thanks Craved, definetly sounds similar to what i'm looking for out of my engine - but i didn't know the rb25 could take that much power with relatively high boost because of the 9:1 compression, which is comparitively higher than the other turbo nissans. How long has your car been like that for, and with the big turbo and airflow meter do you get any reversion problems with idle etc when clutching from above 3000rpm. The reason I ask is because I had a high mount turbo on my ca18 with an s-afc, with a short stainless pipe connecting the AFM to the turbo. And when i'd slowly wind any gear out (with or without boost) and then have to go to neutral for a red light or whatever, the cars idle would hunt like a mofo, even stall on the rare occasion. This could possibly be due to the piggyback nature of the s-afc as opposed to the standalone power fc i've got planned.

Cheers

Hey Tuna,

I will let you know how mine goes. Power FC, injectors, cams, GT3540(better match apparently than 3040 with no worse lag), fuel pump, 48mm pro-gate, split dump with removable pipe to screamer.  All getting done currently and should be ready early april.

Cheers

JB :)

Hey JB,

DEFINITELY let me know how your r33 goes with that combination :P sounds absolutely awesome.. I might even lean towards a similar turbo to that if it works well top end:response wise. But I gotta keep myself in check. Its cool for the skylines to make this much power becuase they are very stable and well built cars, but im planning this kind of a setup in a 180sx, so its gonna be a 4-lane job when i put the boot into it :lol:

The best thing is the looks you get from the sr20 powered s13's s14's and s15's.. If you look closely you can pinpoint when the penny drops

First you get the ;) look, then :P and then finally :rolleyes:

B)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys, it made that power but it sure-as-shit didn't make it for long...especially the way Brett used to rape it. :D

exactly.

Thanks for clarification :(

HypeR33 - what spec if the gt35? Its just no possible to have a bigger turbo of the same family coming on as good as its smaller cousin

exactly.

Thanks for clarification  :P

Thereis always more to a story...and from what i understand the engine was happy at that power...dramas only startedwhen they leant onit further with fuel and tuning?????????????????????????????????????

Thanks Craved, definetly sounds similar to what i'm looking for out of my engine - but i didn't know the rb25 could take that much power with relatively high boost because of the 9:1 compression, which is comparitively higher than the other turbo nissans. How long has your car been like that for, and with the big turbo and airflow meter do you get any reversion problems with idle etc when clutching from above 3000rpm. The reason I ask is because I had a high mount turbo on my ca18 with an s-afc, with a short stainless pipe connecting the AFM to the turbo. And when i'd slowly wind any gear out (with or without boost) and then have to go to neutral for a red light or whatever, the cars idle would hunt like a mofo, even stall on the rare occasion. This could possibly be due to the piggyback nature of the s-afc as opposed to the standalone power fc i've got planned.

Cheers

only been making that power for a few months now, and i havent been driving it all that much to be honest. my current wastegate is faulty and has some eratic boost pressures running through the engine because of it. so its not something i have been pushing til i get the new one and know for sure that only 18psi is going to run through it...

i do get the issue of stalling since im running a atmo bov, havent been arsed to work out a plumb back system with the aftermarket plenum... but thats an easy situation to resolve with some taps of the right foot.

known a few cars that run up near 18psi on smaller turbos and only making 240-250rwkw so it really looks like the bigger turbos are able to give the engine the extra air they need without pushing the limits of boost and the CR.. that said i am sure the cometic metal gaskets dont change the CR at all, but are more likely to hold up with a little more puishment than the std ones.

i ran an rb25 in my vl.... had

masterpower T70 tubo, 38mm turbosmart gate on screamer, gtr injectors, 800hp fuel pump, GReddy plenum, szr throttle body, microtech ltx8, 3.5" from turbo back, el falcon coils, 600x300x90 frontmount......

360.8hp or 268rwkw on only 13psi, have dyno sheet to prove.

i was told in order to correctly lower the CR in an rb25 you had to O-Ring the block. Not sure whether this is true though..

Those two things are not really related. Getting the combustion chamber machined is the best way to lower the CR but a thick head gasket is cheaper and easier.

And regarding the comment about GT-RS being suited to SR20's. The GT-RS that goes on an SR20 is not the same GT-RS that goes on an RB25. It's smaller.

If I didn't blow my stock turbo and and get the GCG hiflow rebuild I would have got the GT-RS. I think it's a great match. Of course now I drool over the 2835 with the 0.87 rear housing.

255rwkw with cams at 0.9 bar in an auto says a lot for this turbo but it's not for everyone. Don't forget that the R34 has a larger rear housing than the R33.

Hey Tuna,

I will let you know how mine goes. Power FC, injectors, cams, GT3540(better match apparently than 3040 with no worse lag), fuel pump, 48mm pro-gate, split dump with removable pipe to screamer.  All getting done currently and should be ready early april.

Cheers

JB :rofl:

And right there (APRIL) is a prime example of why so many people go for the GCG Ball Bearing high flow option. Forget 2 months, more like 2 days.

:D cheers :O

PS; not picking on HypeR33, he has a realistic time frame.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
×
×
  • Create New...