Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I changed my previously RB20 fitted Silvia to RB25DET running gear and swapped the RB20DET driveshaft tolk to a Nissan Terrano yolk. A respected Nissan specialist wrecker sold me this yolk saying it was identical to the RB25DET yolk. I even asked around on the forums and most people backed this up.

I went ahead and took my driveshaft to a specialist and got the new yolk welded up. I have come across a problem however. The snout does actually slide into the 25t gearbox, but doesnt slide in all the way because the the yolk comes in contact with the gearbox dust shield. Some pics to help explain..

DSC02263.jpg

DSC02262.jpg

Now, because of this my initial measurment is now wrong and the driveshaft will not even clear the sway bar to bolt onto te diff. Its 6cm too long. I would simply take it back, pay an extra $100 and get it shortened, but the snout only slides 2/3 of the way in....like so-

DSC02267.jpg

The black vivid indicates where the yolk gets in contact with the dust shield and stops. Not exactly promising when im pushing for 400hp.

Ive already spent a few hundred on this driveshaft so i dont want to get a new one piece made up from an original RB25DET driveshaft. Ive decided im going to take it to a michinist and cut around the yolk so that it slides in all the way through the dust shield and into the input shaft. I just want to make sure that there are no negative effects in doing this. Also, can anyone with an R33 tell me if their yolk slides in all the way into the dust shield or does it sit like mine?

Thanks guys, I hope this isnt a little confusing :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105109-help-with-r33-driveshaft-issues/
Share on other sites

The RB25 yoke slides part way into the dust shield. You could machine the yoke as you say, with balance being the only thing likely to be affected (but probably not significantly).

A cheaper and quicker options would be to simply remove the dust shield, it's only a press fit to the back of the gearbox. You could then shorten the dust shield to suit. Leaving the dust shield off will expose the seal, but an occasional clean of the area will overcome any likely problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.
    • Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.
    • It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
    • OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
×
×
  • Create New...