Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it seems like dynodynamics on shootoutmode is the popular choice for a dyno readout but ive heard recently that autosalon changed their dyno to a mainline dyno . which one is more accurate?

two different dyno's (mainline and dyno dynamics) in the same city (around 5 klms apart), two days apart with similar barometric conditions. read within less than 1% of each other. With the same vehicle.

Not bad eh!....pretty acurate

ive heard recently that autosalon changed their dyno to a mainline dyno . which one is more accurate?

and yeah, just on that... the Cabin group have been using mainline dynos since 2002/3.

So its far from "recent" news

two different dyno's (mainline and dyno dynamics) in the same city (around 5 klms apart), two days apart with similar barometric conditions. read within less than 1% of each other. With the same vehicle.

Not bad eh!....pretty acurate

Where?..which dynos? Anytime I have seen the same car go on a dynolog and then a dynamics, the dynamics always reads about 10-15% higher.

Where?..which dynos? Anytime I have seen the same car go on a dynolog and then a dynamics, the dynamics always reads about 10-15% higher.

Croydons...then Autosalon....and it was Stacey's car...so i should know.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Croydons...then Autosalon....and it was Stacey's car...so i should know.

I didn't say you didn't...but I think Cabin must have a 'special' version of the Dynolog software.

I know of a wrx that made 20% more power on CRD's dyno in the afternoon than it made on a Dynolog in the morning. There were no changes in between. Had the same tank of juice and all.

All the other dynologs I've seen read very similarly (comparing the same cars on different days)

did you record the temps on that day?

you said morning and arvo... so my bet there could have been a reasonable temp difference.

end of the day, does it really matter? anyone can can get any figure if you need too

did you record the temps on that day?

you said morning and arvo... so my bet there could have been a reasonable temp difference.

end of the day, does it really matter? anyone can can get any figure if you need too

Yep...it was slightly warmer in Syd than the gong...only a degree or 2.

Yep..I agree

I didn't say you didn't...but I think Cabin must have a 'special' version of the Dynolog software.

I know of a wrx that made 20% more power on CRD's dyno in the afternoon than it made on a Dynolog in the morning. There were no changes in between. Had the same tank of juice and all.

All the other dynologs I've seen read very similarly (comparing the same cars on different days)

Well how does this grab ya...Carlos from Millenium Motorsports ran 599kw at Queensland 2 days before Autosalon on his Mainline dyno...and at the same boost levels ran 601kw on Autosalon's dyno.....he must have the "special" software too!

Mainline dyno's even run the same no matter if its 2WD or 4WD...we proved it in front of hundreds of people at Final Battle...there was 1kw difference between the runs.

I think what Mik is trying to say is Croydon's dyno is happy...if its so happy i should be rolling almost 520AWKW......i think im gonna have a word to Jim about my deflated power figures.

Edited by DiRTgarage
I Have seen IDENTICAL results on two different dynologs equate to 40awkw more on two different dynodynamics dynos in an unchanged trim/tune. Just my experience.

highly experienced acredited operators should not have such a discrepancy...as essentially the dyno's use similar hardware.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
×
×
  • Create New...