Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The more you modify it the less you will drive it.

My 33 hardly sees the road anymore as driving it to work is the city is a pain in the ass and then theres the bacon to also worry about everytime you take it out. Thats y i got myself a second car as a daily driver. My daily driver only has around 190kw@engine and is plently driving around most times

On the street I find 240 rwkw as much as I would want. Ive had more powerful dailys and they are not practical.

I dont drive mine daily, im in the company car mostly, so its good fun getting into the more powerful car.

240rwkw is good but not enough. 1st and 2nd are hell fun, don't need more power there but I'd like to be able to snap it into third with more than just a chirp.

Until it becomes impratical, you'll always be wanting more once you become acustomed to what you have. I think I'll hit the limits of my stock internals then stop. So cams and injectors should finish it nicely and hopefully get me to 260-270rwkw.

Just got the money from my new loan to buy me a daily though. Getting a Suzuki Sierra. 1.3l carb! Driving the Skyline less will make me appreciate it more :P

Power figures by themselves don't mean too much - especially on the street. More importantly is where does it come on. I know of a number of high (and I mean big) horsepower cars that can't use any of it until after 5000-6000rpm. They would be eaten down low by a high torque car which comes on early.

Mind you - once they wind up on a longer stretch its bye-bye, but generally thats not where most of us drive.

mines making around 300rwkw's and its not enough but im making 1500+ NM's oif tractive effort on the dyno wheel spinning.... needless to say its pretty silly on the street but more is never enough...

Needless to say its back into RD and were doing some more things too hopefully push up and over the 400kw mark and thats where i shall sit for a while. Next will be a tube frame car, fiber glass body to exactly replicate the current car, same engine but with a PSI blower hanging out the bonnet. Will more then likely commence mid-end of next year.

lol, i didnt know you can power down at 300rwkw and stil have traction, is this with some sort of lsd'd or what?, even at 180rwkw i feel there is a bit of issues with my tyres trying to grip whilst building boost!

that means your tyres need replacing.

i ran 330rwkw and had little traction issues using street 225's.

skated a tad @ the top end of each gear. Otherwise in my book it was nothing.

I've seen poorly setup stock R33's get more wheelspin.

all in suspension and tyres.

As for your question about torque... i doubt many here have had thier motor on an engine dyno to be able to accurately answer that.

Dynos are a tuning tool... worse if you try using the torque figures

Sounds like someone has been playing way too much nfs most wanted.

I may have 300awkw at the moment, but it blows, because the sort of driving i do requires me to have decent power down low. I think I would be happier with around the 250-270awkw with much better response

maybe we should swap?? lol i've got just over 250 at the wheel and full boost at around 3700. i love giving it some in rwd as it just smokes em up as it hits boost. that's with semi slicks.... hate to see what it would be like with shit tyres.

i think 250kw in a rwd skyline is enough for street. in a GTR i think 310 or so is about right.

if we are talking track make that 280 for the rwd sky, and 380 for the GTR. :(

hehe ill see how 250rwkw feels and responds and then go from there, hell im happy with 200rwkw atm once tuned.......

whats the best way to get r33's to stop spinning up when you have more power (ie 250+rwkw)?, i think i do have Sh*& tyres to tell ya the truth!

Tyres make a huge difference, I usually run 265s, and from compound to compound, it makes a big difference. With yoko AVS, I find 3rd gear easy to fry after clutching it, but I have since bought some new SO3 bridgestones, and they grip like HELL!!

As someone mentioned earlier, power figures mean little, theres so many variables, unless your clearing 280 rwkw :(

Personally I think Its useless getting heaps of power if ur gonna drive it on the street. Not only does it become dangerous, but you will get caught. Not to mention the legalities. In melbourne here Im not bothering going all out on mods, even though its relatively inexpensive to do so- police just hammer you. If your gonna use it for track go for it -.

A mate of mine spent about 8K modding his R33 about 4 months ago, made over 300 rwkw. Got done with yellow and EPA and is now struggling to sell his setup for insanely cheap prices. You start to wonder whether its worth it or not.

Any other state (dont know about NSW) I wud have defenitely modified my car much more!

380aw or rwkw for the gtr would make it pretty unstreetable. How many guys do you know making that sort of power have decent reponse ?

With what I have, it sucks. I'll be going gt-ss on the next car, just for something a bit different :(

i said 310 for a street car. 380 for a track car....

As said before - depends on the use for your car, and includes suspension setup and driveability

Ive got a GTR with 235rwkw, and really enjoy taking it out, but almost everytime i drive it, i think about what to do next.

So for me? TO4Z and 420 awkw will be enough.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...