Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heh! They certainly don't do much!

Heath: Did you run the head unit off the floor or seat? Or was it still sitting in the bay? As mentioned earlier, I found a harness that runs in that bay-area, and behind the AC unit that has MASSIVE electrical interference. I could hold the rca's near it, and the whine was louder than the music (at mid-levels).

If you can't test it that way, then grab a 3.5mm stereo mini jack (same as your earphones) to RCA cable. 3.5mm->2xRCA

Plug in your walkman/ipod/whatever into the minijack, then the RCA end goes into your RCA cables (in or outside the car, test both) and see if the noise is there.

If you still have noise, then your head unit is ruled out. It's either your RCA cables, their positioning, or your amp.

Run the rca's from the amp straight out the boot, and use the ipod plugged into them, so you're nowhere near the body.

If that is still noisy, change your RCA cable... use a short one to test with the ipod to the amp. Grab one out of your TV/DVD player and test with it. If the noise is still there, try and borrow a friends amp, and retest all of the above.

Turn your gains down on the amp. Put a massive earth on the battery.

had the same annoying problem when i installed 2 amps in the boot, used supressors which help a little but the noise remained...

i finally tracked the problem to the rca cable being too close to the battery...once i moved it away from the battery noise totally gone..

There are certainly some very good suggestions here to try - I just have a question for the not-so-audio-genius-people like me: For the people suggesting to check the fuses on the GROUND wires and also the "fuseable link" on the rca outs, are these like your normal inline fuse that would be on the wire going from the head unit to the ground or rca out, or is it on the head unit itself or somewhere else??

Last I remember, There were no fuses in the wiring behind the head unit, except for the +12v one. The ground wire went straight from head unit to the chasis and the rca cables had no visible fuse in them...

Thanks for the great ideas. (Still have the damn noise - tried head unit ground points. I guess next would be fuses as suggested, or new rca cables...)

cheers!

I had the same problem. Tried all options (moving earth point, new rca leads etc...) and nothing worked.

The problem was that on my pioneer head unit RCA outputs there was no earth reference on the shield. So I soldered a copperwire onto the shield (earth) of both of the rca outputs and earthed it to the chassis of the head deck. No more noise.

I'm not sure if my headdeck was faulty from factory as i and the other techs at work couldn't see a earth track to the circuit board. I have Audiobahn amps which are american(purchased at JB in Aus along with head deck) and the headdeck is australian. Not sure whether this had something to do with the problem as i've heard that some american cars are positive to chassis.

I had the same problem went and baught a 60amp noise suppressor from jaycar and that didnt fix it but i left it on anyway , i even shortend the +12v cable so there was less chance of noise still just as bad. a month or so later i was doing the earth on the fuel pump and happend to move the negative cable coming from the amp heard that the noise was quieter. i changed the earthing point from the left where the cable was behind the battery to up under the parcel shelf on the right hand side with minimum length cable . fixed . hope this helps i think if your still getting noise do what the other fellas said and re earth the head unit .

The earth fuse on the RCA output is actually built into the headunit. Sometimes it's a tiny fuse that is replaceable. That fuse blows if you plug RCA's in while the amp is on, or the RCA's short on the body or something.

Grounding the RCA negative side to the head unit can act as a workaround...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello First, I apologize if this is not the correct forum. Let me know and I will move it to the correct one. I'm having a problem with the tachometer on my Skyline R33 with an RB25DET Neo engine. I'll tell you from the beginning. I'll tell you from the beginning. I have the RB25DET Neo engine installed in a Nissan Patrol GU, with a Link G4X control unit specifically for that engine,  and I have fitted a Skyline R33 tachograph to the original GU dashboard, but it doesn't work properly. I have the tachometer connected to the positive and negative terminals of the GU panel's wiring, and the signal cable is connected directly to the ECU output pin, but the rpm fluctuates widely. Can anyone tell me if the output signal from an R33 ECU is the same as the output signal from an R34 ECU, or if the voltage and signal type are different? Regards and thanks.  
    • I guess it was the thought about "Oh if I were to drive this everyday". Then no, SL500 I wouldn't really consider lmao. 
    • Yeah actually really fair point. Idk what I was thinking when looking at the SL500. Now that I think about it, I feel like I would have more enjoyment out of a shitbox that I would need to repair than some fancy merc. Although I must admit the SL500 does look quite nice. My bad hahaha.
    • 100% Also "Not wanting to spend money" is THE WORST IDEA IMAGINABLE when coming to a project car of any kind. They EXIST to BURN MONEY. Sure, gas money is a thing. A stock car with the worst fuel economy ever sold would probably be cheaper than modifying a car with FREE petrol for the life of your ownership of it, lol.
    • Amount of time you're being observed by law enforcement is so minute, that you could be a dumb shit 90% of your driving time, and never lose a demerit. You could also be the best driver ever and still get hit with a fine.   When you realise how quickly everything turns from "Wee, we're having fun!" To "oh f**k oh f**k oh f**k", you start to realise the only way to be a good driver, is to not be doing anything dumb or unexpected by normies on the road. You want to go fast, go to the track. Someone there in a 1990s slow POS will also show you how bad of a driver you are as they lap 10 seconds per lap quicker than you can in a car that should be considerably faster.
×
×
  • Create New...