Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

Just wondering what the quickest and cheapest way to 170rwkw is, bearing reliability in mind (as much as possible for an R32!) I think that's more than enough power for a 32, bearing in mind they come stock with 160kw at the motor!

Mine is pretty much stock now, power-wise, save for a catback exhaust and Apexi filter insert, and it already goes alright. So I think such a power-jump will be more than enough (being sensible about things).

I think the following would fit the bill:

3" Front Pipe and Dump Pipe (Probably the 'Flying Performance' style 2-in-1 job).

Standard Cat Convertor? (Do I need to change to hi-flow?)

3" Catback Exhaust with Turbo Muffler

R33 Turbo (Rebuilt)

Electronic Boost Controller (eg. Greddy Profec-B Spec II)

Fuel Computer (eg. Apexi SAFC-II)

Fuel Pump (eg Bosch 040)

Sports Intake Filter (Filter Insert in Stock Airbox)

Front Mount Intercooler (probably just a Hybrid Kit).

Let me know your thoughts on what else is needed, or on what is not needed, as you think fit. I think it's pretty spot on, but I figured the skyliners out there that are already pumping 170kw at the wheels would know better than me :P

Thanks,

Adrian.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

That should just about do it. You can get away with just a regular old 3 inch cat as opposed to the metal cats.

There won't be a hell of a lot left in your injectors but it's easily do able.

To save a bit of money you could go a bleed valve.

Id also recomend a dr drift chip over an sfac, would be about the same price but its one less bit of gear for someone to nick out of your car, and its probably a better tune, plus takes off speed cut and boost cut etc.

And get a fuel regulator. That will give the injectors that bit more they might need.

To give you an idea I have just a front pipe back exaust, fuel reg and pump, pod with cold air, bleed valve set at 12psi and a dr drift chip and im making 155rwkw.

If you add the fmic, dump and r33 turbo (id say even not hiflowed) you should easy get 170rwkw.

from 160rwkw to 170...I think a boost controler is enough....just don't boost higher than 1 bar...0.9 shuld get that power already

umm you got 155rwkw? I thought Johny said stock has 160rwkw?

Edited by SKY 34

i got 170 with a 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat), r33 turbo, gtr fuel pump, hks pod and 1 bar boost

stock ecu and stuff, have remapped now.

with remap should get over 170 pretty easily, if you change your afm, my afm is now maxed out...

highly recommend dr drift

adja, u know the recipy....follow wat i had on my car and ul love it dude

Hey Nathan! What happened with that 33 you got? Surely you're not gonna get it on the road, it's too crazy.

Well, after hearing all the comments, I think the following is necessary to SAFELY provide for 170rwkw:

Fuel Pump

Fuel Pressure Regualtor

Air Flow Meter

Pod Filter Intake

R33 Turbo

Front Mount Intercooler

Front Pipe

Dump Pipe

High Flow Cat

Catback Exhaust

ECU

Boost Controller

Now I'm thinking this is all gonna cost a lot more than I wanted it to. Oh well, might have to do it a bit at a time. Save the boosting for last... see how I go.

Thanks for all your help,

Adrian.

Is this close enough to 170kw for you? :P

dyno002.jpg

mods to get there are:

Flying Performance 3" Front/Dump Pipe

3" High-Flow Cat

3" Kakimoto Catback Exhaust

K&N Pod Filter

Custom Heat Shield

RB25 Turbo with RB20 Actuator (increases base boost by around 3psi)

R34 GTT Sidemount Intercooler with Custom Piping

D2 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Walbro 255 Litre/Hour Fuel Pump

Turbotech Boost Controller set at 11.5psi

ECU Tuned by Dr_Drift

Is this close enough to 170kw for you? :P

dyno002.jpg

mods to get there are:

Flying Performance 3" Front/Dump Pipe

3" High-Flow Cat

3" Kakimoto Catback Exhaust

K&N Pod Filter

Custom Heat Shield

RB25 Turbo with RB20 Actuator (increases base boost by around 3psi)

R34 GTT Sidemount Intercooler with Custom Piping

D2 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Walbro 255 Litre/Hour Fuel Pump

Turbotech Boost Controller set at 11.5psi

ECU Tuned by Dr_Drift

You're my hero! That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Now I just gotta make up my mind as to whether I spend the extra $3000 - $4000 to get all of those mods.

Thanks again,

Adrian.

hey

i have a pod cat bak zorst boost controller bov and i make 173kws at rear wheels

That doesn't sound right. Maybe you've already got an aftermarket turbo kit fitted or something. That, or you're running WAY too much boost, and your motor is going to pop open any second. I can't see the bov making much difference.

Either way, I don't like it.

VG30

fuel pump

fuel reg

HKS FCD

pod

zorst

fmic

target 3g's or less

How come VG30? Isn't that the older turbo from the 3 litre that was used in the VLs? I would have thought the turbo from the R33 would be a better choice. Maybe I'm wrong.

I was thinking that for only 12psi, I could get away with stock turbo.

Guess not.

I'm thinking that if I stay at 12psi I can use the stock RB20 turbo, which will save mucking around. Also want to keep the stock airbox, as I've already got an Apexi Power Intake Filter insert in it, and don't wanna switch to a pod filter if I can avoid it.

Thinking to do:

FLYING PERFORMANCE 3" Front and Dump Pipe in 1

3" High Flow Cat (eBay job)

HYBRID Front Mount Intercooler Kit

BOSCH 040 Fuel Pump

Fuel Pressure Regulator (not sure which brand yet or where to get one from)

APEXI SAFC-2 Fuel Computer

GREDDY Profec-B Spec 2 Boost Controller

Should cost me around $2500 in parts, then obviously whatever installation and tuning costs in addition. If I can get over 160rwkw I'll be happy, but the magic figure is 170! :rolleyes:

Stay tuned...

How come VG30? Isn't that the older turbo from the 3 litre that was used in the VLs? I would have thought the turbo from the R33 would be a better choice. Maybe I'm wrong.

I was thinking that for only 12psi, I could get away with stock turbo.

Guess not.

VG30 turbos come from Z31 300ZXs

they have a bigger exhaust housing so can flow more exhaust gasses and therefore make more top end power

these are known to be pretty laggy on rb20s though as the exhaust housing is designed for a 3L engine not 2L...

but then again, some people dont mind the lag and are happy with the power gains

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...