R33gtst - R32 Gtr.....yes Or No?

[nsta]

Hey guys, i've been seriously thinking about my current situation with my r33 gts-t, and have come to a conclusion with 2 options in mind:

1) Go all out and aim for 250-300rwkw from my r33 25t

2) or sell my car, get a a-b car, and save up for an r32 gtr (eventually getting one within 6mnth period)

Ive been searching topics and what have you all day finding out about r32 gtr's and the whole import issue, and will end up just buying a well look after one from here (NZ), if i take the gtr route that is.

My goal is to have a streetable daily driven skyline, but one thing for sure is once i start modding i wont stop heheh, so thought beforehand to ask you guys which route you'd take, im willing to save up for an r32 gtr if need be.

My r33 atm has the following mods:

3" exhaust + split dump

Apexi pod

Hybrid fmic

thats about it, and a set of 18" wheels

the car has done 165000kms, but hasn't given me any grief since day one!, but then again it's never been modded, would you guys think about going all out on such an old engine?or is this still nothing.

If i was to take the gtr route, i would probably keep it stock for the year, and maybe just save up for future mods, and keep cash bottled up in case of rebuild...but im hoping to not get a lemon lol.

One thing with the 32's, when in standard form, are they quite a reliable car to drive everyday?, as i knw the r33 has been nothing but great in my past 3 years with it, hasnt ever had problems (only light mods though...). I say this because i was thinking maybe the first year with the gtr i'd prolly go for more looks, then move onto power later on......i.e wheels/suspension.

Sorry if i've rambled on for so long, im just not thinking right atm!

[TTT]

keep the 33.

you've got no mods on the thing yet.

probably got close to stock power.

that's why it's so reliable. and will stay so.

you wanna go all out for close to 300rwkw and reliable?

just buy the bits required on the stock internals.

when it pops, get a RB30 bottom end and bolt it all on to that.

cost you piss all and will make the power you want reliably, at lower psi and at lower revs.. with more torque.

if you buy an R32 GTR and spend say $5K to do things that SHOULD be done...

new turbo's

exhaaust

ecu

intake

tuning

compression test etc..

then that will last a long itme too.

but you wanna go all out, it will be a money pit..

your choice.. 300rwkw can be had from your current car with much less money than doing up a gtr from scratch.

[nsta]

how strong is the rb30 bottom end man, and how much can they be had/fitted for, what usually causes the bottom end of a stock 25t to give in? and is it worth dropping compression on the motor or not.

I think a compression/leakdown test from my current motor will help, how much do these costs?

i still am deciding, but either way im sure i'll be happy.

you say more torque down low? you mean it could be more of a practical street car if done right?

[SECURITY]

i'd keep the 33.

the main thing that makes the bottom ends go on rb25's is leaning out of your mixtures then one of your pistons go pop.. like so:

but other than that, ive seen stock internal 25's make 300kw+

[nsta]

Cool thanks for that, im just thinking about all that power and how well the gtst will cope with it, as i'd really like to do some track work aswell, im think a 1-2way lsd would definitely help, as would better tyres...i'd probably deal with it as i go.

How about the brakes on a 25-t, anyone ever upgraded after making big hp?, i'd think they would do the job as they're quite beefy from the factory.

[nsta]

What kind of issues do gtst owners come accross when on their goal for big 250+ rwkw power?im assuming fuel pump, injectors maybe?,anyone ever change their head gasket to lower compression, or will this cause too much lag

[TTT]

stock rb30 bottom end from a series 2 VL non turbo.. there are a couple of people making good power.

guy on here used a series 2 VL rb30 bottom end (with over 300,000kms on it) stuck a stock RB25 head with upgraded valve springs, GT3540 turbo, external wastegate, 16 psi boost and made 306rwkw.

that's one good example.

SK has built a few in his time.

one of his has now got over 70,000kms making 450hp.

RB30 bottom end can be had for about $100.

put in new rings and genuine bearings, your current oil pump, new water pump, new tensioners and new timing belt.

you current head will bolt on to it with no problems.

you will need to work out a way to get oil to the head for the VVT to work.

there is a great DIY guide put together by user on here CUBES.

there is a link to it in his signature file.

yes it will be heaps more streetable at 300rwkw compared to the rb25 at same power.

Brakes - cheapest way to get more braking power would be some DBA slotted cross drilled discs, new Feroddo brake pads, Motul dot 5 or higher if available brake fluid, and a brake master brace.

or you can go all out and get some big brembo's and suitable discs.

LSD and suspension will all help with traction.

do a search in the appropriate section on sau.. there is a braking and suspension section .

[nsta]

cheers, how much would a workshop charge to do a rb30 bottom end to my 25t???

It sounds like a good plan of attack, can the factory bits bolt onto the bottom end so i can leave everything stock atm and work on it later on???or is it best to do a conversion with everything else (larger turbo ec...)

And what needs to be changed/strenthen at the same time mate as i'm goijg to do my sau search research on the subject now lol

cheers

[nsta]

I think i might just stay with stock bottom end till it goes bye bye, then go all out rb30.

Just from experience, what parts of the 25t needs strengthening when you make more power?

[IOWNU]

Personally, I'd get a 32 GTR.

It's such a better car than an R33 GTST (performance aspects.)

If you spend 5k on a GTR? It will be an absolute weapon and if you managed to purchase a good clean GTR, then you won't have any problems, they are pretty strong in every aspect. Also, with the AWD you will be able to get the most use of your power. Handling? Let's not go there.

I'd only keep the GTST, if i was having difficulty selling it.

Peace.

[nsta]

How much would i be looking at paying though, for a good clean gtr, ive been told to keep around 5k aside in case of rebuild .they do a rebuild rb26dett stock for $4500 and my mates workshop.

[IOWNU]

Well, before you buy the car make sure u get it inspected by a peformance mechanic, especially check the engine via compression/leak down tests. Also check the body for rust. 4.5k for a standard rebuild sounds about right.

If all goes well, you should be alright. Besides alot of them have already had rebuilds. I'd keep spare money though, because if somethign does break it will be costly, engine and turbos inclusive. But if you decide to get one, you'll never look back.

[nsta]

thanks, im still deciding, have so much on my mind right now, but with gtr's how many km's should i be looking for....somewhere below the 100,000km mark???

and would i be better off not importing and getting one from here in New Zealand.

BTW how much do leakdown/compression tests cost?

[nsta]

Im assuming if i look hard enough i'll be able to find a clean r32 gtr, non 89 import for around the 23k mark???

[IOWNU]

Im assuming if i look hard enough i'll be able to find a clean r32 gtr, non 89 import for around the 23k mark???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yup.

Well when i got my car tested, the mechanic charged me $150 to test the car completely, including compression/leakdown.

23k....yeah you could get a clean 89/90 model for that much. Also, don't be fussed about kms, lot of the cars are wound back anyway, u should be worried about condition. So if a car has 80,000kms but a crap engine, bad body and worn interior and another has about 120,000kms on the clock, but a healthy engine, straight body and nice interior, you'd obviously go the second car.

[nsta]

cool thanks, what else did he check for $150 that seems like a good price, was it a friend mechanic, sorry ive never done one b4

[IOWNU]

cool thanks, what else did he check for $150 that seems like a good price, was it a friend mechanic, sorry ive never done one b4

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah friend mechanic.

Everything. He took about 2 hours.

He even described the paint in detail etc.

[nsta]

cool i guess a normal one would cost me around $300 then, that sounds fair. though i dont want to be having to do it heaps of time lol

btw what did you change first once getting the gtr, just general maintenance parts?