Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, well pulled out the slush box today..

Got the box out, which was entertainment in itself.. but only problem now is getting this torque converter out. I thought it just slid out, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

It appears to be welded to the flywheel type thing.. Is that factory, or some jap dodginess? and more importantly, how the hell else do I pull it off? :rolleyes:

I've tried levering it off, but not entirely sure that is the right way, and doesn't seem to be working anyhow..

So.. how do I get this sucker out??

post-1332-1139736477.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105552-removing-torque-converter/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure there are bolts that come into it from the back of the flywheel - you must be able to get behind it by rotating each one to the bottom and reach in some how - good luck I am getting a proffessional to do mine next week.

As TurboX says there are bolts holding it in place. There will be 4 of them accessed from the engine side of the flex plate (which is the part with the starter ring gear and it's in turn bolted to the crank). In that photo the engine-gearbox support plates are still in place, if you remove at least one of them you will be able to see 1 or 2 of the bolts depending on the position of the flexplate. They all can be accessed by rotating the flex plate.

Its bolted on the flywheel , get under the car and look from the front of the car towards the rear , you should see the bolts then, if not keep turning until they come to the bottom> Undo the ones you can see then keep turning until you undo them all .

Next time you have to remove an auto box, undo the bolts first and remove it with the converter as one unit .

Yes you should have taken the donk and the box out as one unit. When you re-install assemble the box on to the engine on the floor and install as one unit , much easier .

Removed tonight exactly as described. Thanks for the help guys.

The bolts came off a bit easier than I thought with only the crank to stop it freespinning..but they came off quite easily in the end.

And yes, the new engine and gearbox will get get bolted up together and shimmied in as one to make the whole process of putting it in easier (I hope) :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...