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I chose a bad time to buy, at the time there was no gtst's for sale in NSW and my options were qld, vic, or sa and not the greatest examples or too far out of my budget. Ended up picking this one from adelaide sight unseen and got a bit stitched up as you could expect but i dont fully regret it, its just a shame people cant be more transparent in this day and age. -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly. If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point. -
Little hose. Big hose. They're all waiting to kill the engine. -
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Full e85 barrell stuff real world for reference if it helps as Ive pushed 2 x sets injectors to limit Above mentioned Bosch 1480cc run on 4 bar base to the apparent 1650cc on rb2.7 yielded 912hp / 684 kw at 92% duty on hub dyno ID1700's - RB 2.8 ...1015hp / 760 kw at 87% duty - hubber dyno + shown off data on track my opinion IF you change injectors just go bigger than you think you need the modern/ good larger ones run just fine if tuned properly even if way bigger than required even on streeters
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