Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just last week I got my first skyline a 1990 R32 GTS-4, and I have noticed that after driving around for about an hour the gearbox gets very hot.

I can feel the heat coming up the steel gearstick, the plastic console surround and underneath the gearstick boot.

This being the first GTS-4 that I have driven, I can't say if this is really a problem or not. All the mechanics I talked to suggested a bearing failure but the gearbox isn't noisy so it can't be that...

I had the gearbox oil changed to mobil synthetic, but it hasn't helped at all (exept for lightening my wallet). I have taken off the gearstick boot, so while driving around I can feel the heat coming off the floor area.

So my question is directed at all GTS-4 owners. Do you experience the same problem or is it normal for the 4wd gearbox to get so hot?

I don't think the transfer case has anything to to with it, cos I've been driving really gently around town and on the highway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10562-hot-gearbox-on-r32-gts-4/
Share on other sites

dude, I don't mean warm. I mean Very Hot.

So you think the plastic console around the gearstick is supposed to get hot?

I had the transfer case oil changed aswell, but I don't think it makes any difference

So... is there anyone else out there who could comment on just how hot their box gets?

Even just to say that the heat given off isn't noticable or that the console surround doesn't even get warm after driving around for over an hour.

I've driven a few commonwhores around and I never start to feel the gear stick or anything else get remotely warm( including after a bit of thrashing):D

I feel a bit of heat coming up through mine as well but it sounds like yours is a lot worse than mine.

Dunno what the problem is though ... I started a thread about it a while ago so do a search and see what you come up with.

  • 6 months later...

I have a 93 GTS4. Mine can get quite hot. I've noticed a steamy / smokey kinda thing can happen when I drive around with-out the boot on. I assume it's normal coz my car gets an absolute cane-ing and has done so for three years - 'touch wood'.

To update on my problem: The month after changing the gearbox oil the heat issue has started to go away and now it only gets warm after a long hard drive. this is with Mobil 1 oil.

However, the synchro on 4th gear has absolutley stuffed itself, well i already knew that a few days after buying the car, but now it's really annoying when driving hard. especially after the GOR trip a couple weeks ago.

Anything over 4000rpm in third changing into 4th it crunches like hell. Its the same for the downshift from 5th. But for normal driving, changing gears isn't a problem.

It's a pity that I didn't drive the car hard when I was buying it, cos otherwise I probably wouldn't have.

Anyway, DVNT32 you should come down on saturday for a meet with us in central melb about 4pm.

Check out this thread if ya want http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...40&pagenumber=2

Then we can check out each others rides :D

Cheers

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...