Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning All,

Ive decided to step up the quality of my oil to redline. Ive been quoted about $125 for 5 lites of the 10W40 (engine oil) and about $65 for 2 and a half litres of the shockproof. What shockproof should i be buying tho. there are 3 grades and i got told by one guy that the "medium" would be fine, then another said the "lightweight" is what i need. Would there be much difference between them???

the mods i have are :-

Pod, Intercooler, 3" exhaust turbo back, Power Fc (about to get installed) and boost controller (shipping as we speak).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105652-redline-oil-change/
Share on other sites

i run the same combo ... it does deppend if its Getrag box which i beleive is later model skylines... but you didnt say what yours is bud !

for r32's i went 10/40 Engine, lightwieght shockproof like the dealer book says but for the getrag upgrade the superlighweight is used!

A tip... Anyone supplying these oils should have knowledge and manuals to follow like bursons where i went. i made him ring redline to make sure.....

Edited by ishh

Yeah im about 99% sure i dont have the Getrag box. One of the guys mentioned this to me. well, id say lightweight it is. Cheers for the help. also how often do u change the redline oil. i currently change the engine every 5,000kms. i hope to get a bit longer out of this oil for the price. is this the case or am i just pullin the old wallet out as always?

Yeah im about 99% sure i dont have the Getrag box. One of the guys mentioned this to me. well, id say lightweight it is. Cheers for the help. also how often do u change the redline oil. i currently change the engine every 5,000kms. i hope to get a bit longer out of this oil for the price. is this the case or am i just pullin the old wallet out as always?

I have been using the Redline engine oil for about 5 years now on my old gtst and now my gtt. I usually change it between 5000 and 7000 kms. On my last change I thought I would take it to 10000 but for some reason my engine warning light came on at about the 9000km mark. I did a diagnostic check and came up with an 02 sensor error. I changed the 02 sensor but this did not fix the problem. I changed the engine oil and the light went away. I have no idea why I would get an 02 sensor error from old engine oil but this is enought for me to keep up the 5 - 7000km change in the future.

Also if you are buying it from an auto shop and not a mechanic, it comes by the gallon. This is not enought for the RB's, you will need to buy 2 to begin with and you should get about 4 more oil changes out of the second gallon.

Craig.

You will need around 4-5L of oil for the gearbox, ive only seen it in the 4.5-5L containers and you'll pretty much use it all.

Redline engine oil comes in per quart bottle too so you could just get the exact amount and nothing more.

Redline

i used the 3.78 litre pack and the 1 pint extra bottle for my rb26 and filter...

i have about 500ml top up if i need it :) and was around the $150 mark.... $125 for the 3.7 and $35 fore the pint

The gearbox took 1 x 3.7 litre pack of lightweight with some still left in the bottle so that 5 litre figure your guessang at benm is probably a little exessive. Dont go guessing its to important....

theres lots of info on sump capacities in the info bomb search feature.

Edited by ishh
You will need around 4-5L of oil for the gearbox, ive only seen it in the 4.5-5L containers and you'll pretty much use it all.

Benm, u have a GTR but i have the GTS-4. I think we have the same gearbox from memory. not positive. if not then would that be why the guy told me i only needed 2 1/2 litres for the box. Is this what a normal R32 GTS-t box would take???

I've used the red bottle which is 3.765L in both my R32 GTR and R33 GTS-t and on both occassions their was about 1-2cm left in the bottom of the bottle, so i'd say atleast 3.5L will be needed however I have no idea about an R32 GTS-t.

I just bought 2x bottles of redline 3.87l 1030w for $120!!!

Works auto assesories in perth.

The guy told me to use 10-30w.. is this too thin?

How did you get 2 bottle for 3.87L? You mean 1 gallon for $60 bucks? That really good prices you get there.

btw Redline comes in per quart or gallon bottle.

Edited by Trex101

i checked out www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp and it has each dealer in each state. the "coventry auto parts" dealerships currently have it on special. i was quoted $125 for 5 litres of 10W40. similar price for the shockproof stuff, roughly $25 p/litre it works out to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...