Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if its possible to fit 225s onto stock r33 rims and also is it worth it??

I know u can fit 215s for that extra grip.. but how about 225s??

Worth havin them on?? or just stick with 215s??

Also is it safer to have 215s all round or just rears??

Thanks for the help guys..

Cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105718-are-you-able-to-fit-225s/
Share on other sites

alpinestars-What are the specs of the tyres?? 225s on just rears or front as well?? 50 or 55s??

ahh i see.. hmm thanks for the help samfisher.. will go tyre shop and ask them to see what they can do..

Take my word for it, the 225`s will be ok but feels kinda mushy on quick direction changes or mid speed corners with undulations will allow it to sort of float on the rim.Almost like the car has week suspension bushes but it isn`t.Get the 205 tyres but the money you save off the larger 225`s can be spent on much stickier ones. :P

Fark.. how wide are the 33 stock rims??

They are 6.5" so putting 225's on is a bit like Shaq screwing a midget!

It will eventually get in, but it won't be pretty.

Because I am a drift ricer I run 215/45 on 9"

post-662-1139935306.jpg

Edited by Gojira

Yes, they'll fit (they're about the widest tire you can 'safely/legally' go to on a 6.5" wide rim)

HOWEVER

you're much better off going for a 205/55/16 tyre, as the sidewalls will be stronger/stiffer, and you won't get that "Mushy" feeling (as mentioned in a previous post).. what that is is when the sidewall of the tyre is actually moving from side-to-side and distorting... so while the tyre may be in full contact with the road and have complete traction, you are still getting a sway in the tyre from the sidewall moving around...

However, this doesn't really apply if you're putting 225/50/16 R-Compound semi-slicks or slicks on the rims, as most semi-slicks and slicks have a highly reinforced sidewall to cope with the extreme forces placed on them in high-speed cornering etc!

Whilst what azzurra says is partially correct you will also get less of 'contact' patch on the road due to tyre distortion....by forcing a wider tyre onto a rim the middle of the tyre will flex (not only the sidewall) thus getting a convex shape with air pressure inside it.

Check a couple of tyre websites (stuckeys / dunlop etc etc) for the optimum size you can fit on a particular sized rim.....

on the front the overall diametre wont really affect anything, your car will be 10mm lower at the front from the small diametre.

and 225s on the back of 32 rims is the same as runnin 225s on the back of 33 rims... theyre the exact same size, offset etc etc

alpinestars-What are the specs of the tyres?? 225s on just rears or front as well?? 50 or 55s??

ahh i see.. hmm thanks for the help samfisher.. will go tyre shop and ask them to see what they can do..

yer dude i got 225s on all fours

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...