Jump to content
SAU Community

Help. My Gtst S2 Is Revving By Itself.

GTSTGIRL

By GTSTGIRL,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSTGIRL Enthusiast

GTSTGIRL

Posted
Posted

Hey people,

I am new to this. So please bear with me. I just recently bought my baby and she has now got a mind of her own.

Its a GTST S2. When I start it, she goes ok but when I stop at lights and idiling, it revs up and down by itself. Can anyone give me an idea of what this could be. Hopefully, its nothing major.

Cheers

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted
Hey people,

I am new to this. So please bear with me. I just recently bought my baby and she has now got a mind of her own.

Its a GTST S2. When I start it, she goes ok but when I stop at lights and idiling, it revs up and down by itself. Can anyone give me an idea of what this could be.  Hopefully, its nothing major.

Cheers

sounds like uv blown off a vacuum hose, happeds all the time. look under the bonnet for a hose off ur manifold, and put it back on... the old nissan factory hoses are shit. wen they get hot and get sum pressure behind em, they blow off

GTSTGIRL Enthusiast

GTSTGIRL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like uv blown off a vacuum hose, happeds all the time. look under the bonnet for a hose off ur manifold, and put it back on... the old nissan factory hoses are shit. wen they get hot and get sum pressure behind em, they blow off

Cheers for that. I feel like a dumb arse but I really want to learn about my car and how to care for her right.

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted
Cheers for that. I feel like a dumb arse but I really want to learn about my car and how to care for her right.

dnt feel dumb, no one knows everythn! hey are u from campbellton area?

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted
Nah. Brisbane.

how to care for an rb motor...hmmm haha... DONT thrash it, always check oil and water(if either of these gets low for a long period, temps go up, motor goes bye bye) and if ur guna keep it factory, dnt do burnouts... the diffs and uni joint dnt last too long

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
covered a few million times, try

checkin for leaks in intercooler pipeworking

check airflow meter fitting and plug

try ecu reset

You forgot to mention the 2 million times that it could be the AAV, or the TPS.
GTSTGIRL Enthusiast

GTSTGIRL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i had this problem when i had a leak in my radiator hose due to having a thermofan with a thermostat put in the top of the hose at the top of the radiator. air in the system is baaaaaddd

DAMN. Hope its not that.

LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeh RB engines and idling its a pain. Mine has a mind of its own. I was driving today everything was fine idling good and the im at the lights and my idle decides to go from normal to 1,000rpm. This happens at all the traffic lights all the way to my girlfreinds house. Then when i drive to the restaurant for a little while it drives fine then it starts to idle at the same place at every traffic light. OK park the car go have dinner at a restaurant come back drive it all is ok idling at normal speed?? what da?? it use to do it before but only for a little while then id rev it and it would go back down now it wont go down if i did it. I did the ecu reset all was good till today. tps is fine. before i go cleaning aav and air flow metre anything else u guys think it could be. its just strange as it comes and goes. i might do the ecu reset again think this will help???

Edited by LatinR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...