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, you need to drop the engine out of the way to drill into the firewall. You understand all that right?

Can it be done from inside the car, ie remove the dashboard??

This would be much easier than removing the engine

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I had the unichip off for a while cos the coil packs are stuffed (think thats it) and would miss terribly over 2500 rpm.

Mainly cos i was in tassie and they dont sell 98ron there.

Since i got to melbourne and running ultimate the uni chip is back on, goes a lot better but still misses under heavy load.

A set of splitfires will be the answer i believe.

yep, checked that as well as threee types of plugs, no good still. Really need to pull my finger out and get it fixed.

Not good when your stag is coughin and spittin and an ET goes past you.

Thats no good at all, it does sound like your coil packs are breakin down, you could repair them, i've seen a few threads on this. Or jus go splitfires but there pretty pricey.

Over time they get hairline cracks in the body of the coil, and under load the coil shorts to any close nearby earth, which is usually the metal ring around the coil which it mounts with.

Quite a few guys have had success sealing these cracks with a few different methods, do a search and u'll definately find some info :P

Ive called APS here and the said it would be around 1500-1600$ for a unichip + boost control kit installed, tuned and drive away....does anyone think that this is actually worth it?

I mean, is a Unichip 1600$ good?

So - do you use your glovebox much?

SAFC - $400 (approx?)

SITC - $250 (either new or 2ndhand)

EBC - $250 (Hybrid dual stage) up to $1000

Setup and tuning - $700

So all of that is roughly $1600 as well & a FULL glovebox - depends which way you want to go really.

EDIT - with fuel regulator, pod filter, full zorst, fmic, etc etc, and the above, 160awkw is nothing to be sneezed at, with easy 200awkw potential with a hiflow turbo.

Edited by bwilkeson

Are there any issues running larger injectors on a stock ECU? Can it run the injectors i mean. If yes, the tune will be for

GCG

Exhaust

FMIC

HF Panel filter

Jaycar EBC 14psi (or whats safe on an RB25 stock internals)

Injectors

Exhaust cam gear

Splitfire coilpacks

DC ATF cooler

Auto Shift kit (maybe in a new gearbox??)

Tomei poncams (??? what lift, duration etc?)

Any ideas on what I can push out of a unichip? I mean, could i push the car to an easy 225awkw+? (better then SITC and DFA?)

On another note I wont need the boost controll kit, so they said take off a few hundred dollars. So lets say 1250....thats good isnt it?

The problem I always find with chipped ECU's is they cost almost as much to update as when they were installed in the first place. That's not so bad if you are going to do all your mods at once and not drive the car until it is tuned. But I never seem to be able to do that, I always end up doing more mods or wanting to try something. A chipped ECU would be a real pain in the ass for me.

I only put the IEBC, DFA and SITC in the glovebox because I don't use the glovebox. The street directory goes in the drivers door pocket, the first aid kit goes in the passengers side door pocket and the CD's go in the pocket on the rear of the passengers seat. The incidentals go in the console. If I wanted to use the glovebox, I would have put them under the passengers seat.

I find this immediate leap of logic from "engine is missing" to "coil packs must be stuffed" most frustating. I have a 420+ rwkw RB31DET running on stock standard, 170,000 k's old, 1990 R32GTST coils packs. I had a 265 rwkw R34GTT, with standard coil packs. The R33GTST that has Alex's Power FC in it has standard coill packs. The R32GTR with the RB30 in it has been running 475 bhp for 6 years on its standard 1989 coil packs. Needless to say the Stagea has standard coil packs in it.

My experience has been that over 95% of engine missing problems has NOTHING to do with coil packs. It is usually ECU R&R mapping, sometimes badly gapped plugs and/or incorrect heat range plugs, very occasionaly it's extemely poor tuning (mega rich). Changing coil packs is a last resort, only to be used when all other methods have failed, not the first port of call.

:D cheers :D

Cheers SK, i was just told to try the coil packs.

I tried 3 different types of spark plugs all gapped to .8mm also other gaps and heat ranges

The car was fine when i got it from canberra. The drive back it went like a dream, but not long after being in Tassie, started to miss under load.

I removed the unichip and it ran a lot better, slower but less missing, and it only missed under decent ammounts of load.

Are reccomended plugs in the parts list thread, otherwise any reccomendations.

This is my first injected car and im slowly learning.

Thanks.

mate i had the same problem as you for ages. it seemed to right itself. Then everytime my turbo boosted more than 10psi it would start missing again. i tried eveything 3 different kinds of plugs even gapped my plugs down to .65 tried putting dielectric grease inside rubber boot of coils. cleaned my coils up and inspected them multiple times. No cracking at all i even looked at them through a magnifiying glass as the problem was driving me mental. After all that i was convinced it wasnt the coils. Until one day i got got sooo sick of having a phat car that i could drive hard because of a stupid little bullshit problem like it breaking up that i was desperate fro a solution. So i bit the bullet ordered a set of splitfires and what do you know it fixed the problem now car will boost to 14psi no ign break up at all. Not to mention feels alot better with them in.

i got them from perfectrun.com.au for 550 delivered.

i know how you feel i nearly went mental. I hate bullshit problems like that. But i will almost guarantee the coils are fkd and you need new ones. I was in denial that i needed new coils as i could see anything wrong with them. But i was wrong and for once my gamble paid off

It may not be the coils but it could be an ignitor problem. I used to have an SR20DET sileighty and one day I was smart enough to wash out the engine bay (I was younger and much more stupid back then :P) and stuffed the TPS, car ran like shit would miss and splutter all over the place and it was still auto then and wouldn't shift properly. I converted it to manual (which I was going to do anyway), fitted a manual TPS and it still missed heaps. I checked over the coils and couldn't find anything wrong but still assumed this was the problem because I fitted a new set of standard NGK plugs gapped to what they should be. Still no good. So I thought just as a test I gapped them RIGHT down and bingo, it still missed a little under high load but nothing like it had been. Then I purchased a set of NGK Platinum plugs and gapped to spec and bingo sweet. So like SK said, if they look in good condition and you can see no signs of arcing then they most likley are. Just as a test try closing the gap on the plugs and see what happens.

  • 2 years later...

hey everyone. just a silly question. ive got a seres 2 stag full 3 inch exhaust and a k&n panel filter. ive got a constant and getting worse miss that im chasing. but thats for another day. has anyone had any real experience with a power fc in a series 2 stag? just considering it as a tunable upgrade.

thanks

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