Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well by saying an API SM oil is good, then I guess everyone can get away with GTX2 then? API specs are not hard to meet. ACEA are tougher.  <_<

Every half decent oil is API SL/SM rated now. Mobil 1 is SM. So is Castrol GTX2. Does that mean they are as good as each other? Obviously not. So by saying Fuchs meets API SM its suddenly a great oil? No. OE certs are usually harder to meet than API standards such as MB and VW's so they are more relavant. (Although I wouldn't expect GT1 to meet OE specs just like 300V, Redline etc)

Looking at raw details such as the base oil, the additive packages and performance in UOAs is more of an indication of how good an oil is, not just what API spec it is. And Fuchs in this regard have shown nothing out of the ordinary.  :D

Then again any oil isnt even at least API rated SL, it doesn't be deserved to be put into any car whatsoever!

Cheers  B)

A great site for UOA results: BITOG

Well by saying an API SM oil is good, then I guess everyone can get away with GTX2 then? API specs are not hard to meet. ACEA are tougher.  <_<

Every half decent oil is API SL/SM rated now. Mobil 1 is SM. So is Castrol GTX2. Does that mean they are as good as each other? Obviously not. So by saying Fuchs meets API SM its suddenly a great oil? No. OE certs are usually harder to meet than API standards such as MB and VW's so they are more relavant. (Although I wouldn't expect GT1 to meet OE specs just like 300V, Redline etc)

Looking at raw details such as the base oil, the additive packages and performance in UOAs is more of an indication of how good an oil is, not just what API spec it is. And Fuchs in this regard have shown nothing out of the ordinary.  :)

Then again any oil isnt even at least API rated SL, it doesn't be deserved to be put into any car whatsoever!

Cheers  B)

I never said Fuchs API SM was suddenly a great oil, I am just trying to help you guys out with some information. Well go buy the oil that your Skyline recomends. You probably dont know what it is. Should be JASO something.

I am not here to try and brain wash anyone that Fuchs is the best, if you read my earlier posts you will see that I said most oil company's are good. But if you are after a MB or VW spec to put into your Nissan, Fuchs will have it as they are initial fill for both

I provided information on Fuchs products and some helpfull information. Now im geting shot down for trying to help people. no wonder i stopped visiting this site!

Go pay $100 for Redline and drain it after 5000 kms I dont care. If you think i am tring to do this to help Fuchs sales in retail your mistaked. One decent size transport or earthmoving company spends more per year on lubes than several autoshops put together.

You believe your car is demanding on oil. Think about how much work a lube has to do when towing 128 tons thru heat and dust and not be drained until 80,000 kms. Or a 18 speed roadranger gearbox doing 500,000 kms per drain.

By the way everybody would get away with GTX2. It would take anything you guys could dish out.

ASH

Wow man take a chill pill. Its just a discussion forum. I never meant to offend you. My apologies if I came about this way. I didnt read that you work for Fuchs either. Actually I would have a few questions heheh..

Anyways oils are like peoples favourite drink, no matter how good a drink is to you, others may still not like it.

Cheers.

Edited by Busky2k
I never said Fuchs API SM was suddenly a great oil, I am just trying to help you guys out with some information. Well go buy the oil that your Skyline recomends. You probably dont know what it is. Should be JASO something.

I am not here to try and brain wash anyone that Fuchs is the best, if you read my earlier posts you will see that I said most oil company's are good. But if you are after a MB or VW spec to put into your Nissan, Fuchs will have it as they are initial fill for both

I provided information on Fuchs products and some helpfull information. Now im geting shot down for trying to help people. no wonder i stopped visiting this site!

Go pay $100 for Redline and drain it after 5000 kms I dont care. If you think i am tring to do this to help Fuchs sales in retail your mistaked. One decent size transport or earthmoving company spends more per year on lubes than several autoshops put together.

You believe your car is demanding on oil. Think about how much work a lube has to do when towing 128 tons thru heat and dust and not be drained until 80,000 kms. Or a 18 speed roadranger gearbox doing 500,000 kms per drain.

By the way everybody would get away with GTX2. It would take anything you guys could dish out.

ASH

Hey kingscorp, we appreciate your sharing of knowledge with us on Fuchs lubricants. We are also learning everyday, peace. I think what Busky2k is trying to say is API standard is pretty normal, almost all decent oil brand can make it. It's the ACEA A3 standard which must meet a min HTHS of 3.5 or MB 229.3 standard which separate the good among the average oil.

Anyway what i think is most important in a oil are the

HTHS figure ( for Hydrodynamic lubrication)

anti-wear additives ( for boundary lubrication)

surfactant, detergent level ( engine cleanliness)

Perhap with your insider knowledge, you could disclose some data of fuchs lubricant for our discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...