Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks or rather sounds like I may have just destroyed my RB25det, started as loud creaking sound taking off at the lights not fast, thought first of all my diff had blown, then progressed to loud knocking, limped home popped the bonnet and discovered the knocking which is now LOUD!! is coming from the engine my best guess granted that im far from being any kind of mechanic is that theres been some kind of internal detonation, cracked head/pistons/rings oils leaking from head gasket, anyway early days to make any assumptions havnt had anyone proffesional look at it yet but since I was allready considering ripping out the engine to do a full respray I thought this might be as good a time as any to think about an upgrade, thought about the RB30 bottom end RB25 top deal a few skyliners seem to be going for but was wondering wether its posible to fit an RB26dett in a GTST? like I said Im no mechanic but Im eager to learn and just didnt know wether its possible to take the all wheel drive to rear wheel drive, Ive got another car to drive so I thought might as well make the most of a bad situation any advice would be appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105976-rb26dett-in-r33gts25t-possible/
Share on other sites

Its possible mate, it'll remain rear wheel drive, they just swap the sumps as far as im aware, they might possibly have to use an adaptor plate. Not to sure, but definetly can be done. There was a gts (non turbo) which had been converted to twin turbo rb26dett for sale a few months back for $19000. So definetly can be done with no problem at all.

Dayne

Search button, Ive replied to this question twice in a week, with prices etc etc.

All right all right calm down Ive been searching but all that comes up is this dude saying do it this way and another dude saying nah do it this way or you cant do that! I just thought someone whose succesfully done this and got some really worthwhile gains from it might have put in something straight forward and precise on whats involved, what parts are needed and what its likley to cost the average skyline owner that dosn't work in a workshop or have a best mate that does no need to get s*(&y Ive just f@#$ed my engine by the looks of it and looking for some advice :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...