Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It has been discussed somewhat in old posts, but I would like to get some recent feedback on syncro gearbox options for street driven GT-Rs. I'm NOT interested in going to dog engagement gears, so I figure that leaves:

1. Replace/rebuild standard gearbox as required. I guess that this is the most common practice as it works out cheapest. Reliability will obviously depend on factors such as abuse, main duty of car (drag racing etc) and torque.

2. OSG helical gearset with syncros. These would appear (to me anyway) to be basically the same size and design as OEM Nissan gears, with the benefit being that they (theoretically) are manufactured with higher strength due to their metallurgy and finishing.

3. PAR straight cut gearset with syncros. If you believe PAR's caim on their website, the large tooth profile means that there is added strength and reliability in going to this straight cut profile. The downside is the noise, however in theory this should only be in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears (4th is 1:1 ratio and 5th will retain standard helical gears).

I would appreciate feedback on the OSG and PAR options from people who have tried the products. Any premature or unexpected failures?

Cheers

Gav

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105996-gtr-gearset-options/
Share on other sites

ppg also make a synchro GTR box i think. most people i know who have used both, favour there product over the PAR ones.

from what i know the other difference the OS box has over stock is the tooth pitch is different. slightly 'straighter' profile so there is a little more gear noise than stock. i have one in my car, but only running around 250rwkw so as expected no failures or problems. i can say it's not as easy to shift when shifting slowly at low engine speed as a stock box, but at high RPM with faster shifts it is beatiful to use. i'm also running a OS solid centre twin plate, which may be half of the driveability problem, but it is not that bad (the box i mean).

i reckon someone in w.a should start selling some cheap gearsets and they would be millionaires :P or even second hand gtr boxes as they will be breaking like twigs between u, simon, bobbo, mine and a couple of other high power 26's haha :P

Edited by CruiseLiner
Auto Gallery Yokohama make a double syncro coned gearset...

http://www.ag-y.com/english.htm

I think Auto Gallery yokohama just do a double syncro conversion. They also upgrade gearsets...but I'm pretty sure they use OS Giken gear sets.

One think with the Giken gearset is that 1st is so damn tall. It would be a pain for hill starts and driving up driveways, especially in a heavy R33/R34/Stag with biggish cams.

OSG helical gearset with syncros. These would appear (to me anyway) to be basically the same size and design as OEM Nissan gears, with the benefit being that they (theoretically) are manufactured with higher strength due to their metallurgy and finishing.

The size and tooth profile of the OS gerset is vastly different from the Nissan design.....big thick chunky teeth.

Im leaning towards the PAR, simply for value for money reasons. It looks like a very strong box, and they guarantee it up to 750bhp. It costs less than $5000 for them to rebuild the box with new gearset and a freshen up of the box (new bearings etc).

Have seen one installed in a GTR, the owner said driving it was very similar to the stock box. The only real downfall is they are -very- noisy 1st through 3rd.

Amaru: OS Giken 5 Speed Gear Set all the way for me, I know of PAR and Sam the owner and im not a fan of his designs or buisness sense.

NissanFreak

Haha...I was going to post something along those lines, but you beat me to it.

Strange how he doesn't put his name to his gear anymore...

The size and tooth profile of the OS gerset is vastly different from the Nissan design.....big thick chunky teeth.

Oops - my bad, shows that it's dangerous to assume! I would be keen to see a set of OEM gears next to the OSG set.

With regards to the OSG set, I remember Mario basically writing them off as a waste of time (actually sh!te was the term he used I think), but I guess it depends on what the ultimate use is and how they're "abused"

One think with the Giken gearset is that 1st is so damn tall. It would be a pain for hill starts and driving up driveways, especially in a heavy R33/R34/Stag with biggish cams.

il second that. my little ts2bd clutch is feeling the strain. just like taking of in second :)

Im leaning towards the PAR, simply for value for money reasons. It looks like a very strong box, and they guarantee it up to 750bhp. It costs less than $5000 for them to rebuild the box with new gearset and a freshen up of the box (new bearings etc).

Have seen one installed in a GTR, the owner said driving it was very similar to the stock box. The only real downfall is they are -very- noisy 1st through 3rd.

nice con rods too. all the meat in the right place. did he tell you no one here buys his stuff. and that it all goes to the states? :lol:

I have a PAR gearset in my S15.The standard set didnt like 250rwkw much.So far no problems,feels strong,a bit noisier,drives like standard.Cost me $4800 all up with delivery to NSW and back,with them rebuilding the box.

I think I'll be using the OS set for my GTR though.

Sam doesnt return calls but he does reply to emails.

Anyone used his rods on a GTR???

Here's a picture of the OS Giken Gear Set. As far PAR rods one comment "they are way too heavy, anyone can build a strong rod if they dont take weight into account" and because of this PAR rods in a high rpm RB26 it would put extra load on the bearings etc.

And my engine builder also said that he once ordered a set and one rod was 1mm shorter than the other three, had him dumb founded on dummy assembly why his squish was out on one cylinder LOL.

Anyway as people may have guessed I am not a big PAR fan.

NissanFreak

post-25763-1140273791.jpg

Edited by NissanFreak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's hope that's not a copy pump either. There were so many copies of them back in the day.
    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
×
×
  • Create New...