Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Veilside R33, you could of bought mine for less than that a few weeks ago, Reliable KW, built by the best GTR workshop in the land (possibly) , all the little annoying things taken care of...... :P

PM if you want info.

Veilside R33

if you now the history and build up, i would definately go a modified gtr.you will save heaps money. make sure you know all the important mods so you have no issues down the track(if you pm me i can tell you what i have learnt from my experiences). very depressing destroying a 400kw + engine as a few on here would know.

i also agree not many cars can make you feel like a quick gtr can down the strip and on the track, i love em.

cheers Russell

Thanks Russell.

Something has clicked in me over the last few days and I have decided to speed up the process, There's an already well built GTR that will suit me perfectly and I am considering making a purchase as soon as next week.

I'll shoot you a PM though, would appreciate your input on this for sure.

I can speak from experience, I just bought a modified 32 GT-R, got it for a great price too ($20K). I found where it had all its work done and I called the workshop and confirmed the mods with them.

They had good things to say about the car. So in my case it was a good buy, having said that, I still need to spend a few thousand on fixing things but you have to expect that when you pay so little.

I wish you well in your hunting.

I haven't put the YLD-SKY plates on yet, but yes i do own them.

I'm in a state of conflict at the moment, the right option for me is to wait till the end of the year, buy a house and the GTR then, in which case i'll probably push my price up to 40k.

Buying the car now is not a good financial decision.

I'm more conflicted over this that i ever have been.

What has sealed the deal essentially has been a work collegue of mine who has recently bought a new Ferrari, he basically said that buying the car now was a bed idea, i needed to get my house and move ahead from there. I think it's in the bible somewhere that sais you can't argue with a guy who owns a Ferrari when it comes to money. (it's somewhere towards the back).

So now it seems that i will be making the purchase either late this year or eraly next year.....anyone got one coming up then? lol.

A tidy and well priced GTR is still not totally out of the question.

Edited by Veilside R33

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105462

I would recommend buying this and having all the fun of 'finishing personal touches'.

Warning: Opinion may be biased.

To answer your initial thread question this is what I have had built for around $50,000 (including purchase price, not incl. fuel/rego), with most parts imported and supplied by Nengun over 2 years. COuld have been alot faster but garage time sucks when you could be enjoying a vehicle like this all year.

Edited by 600ZILLA

Yeah i saw this and would definately consider it.

At the moment if i was to buy ANY GTR there's no doubt in my mind that i'd take Rod (RNGTR's) R32, it's beautifully built and just what i want but it's higher than I can go and won't mess him around by offering anything lower than what it's worth.

MAN... how many 400+hp or 300+KW Skylines are in AU?

IN CANADA there is 9-400+hp skylines in all of Canada!

5 of them live here in British Columbia! that blows me away that there are that many high HP Skylines in AUS!

I guess they are leagel there before the 15 year law so it makes everything easier

I dont know who you have talked to but in all honesty you are kidding yourself if you are willing or want to drive a car with over 500hp at the wheels as a daily driver, thats nearly 700hp at the engine. People just dont understand how much stress is placed on an 2.6 litre engine making that much power not to mention the rest of the drivetrain. if you can buy a GTR doing these number repeatably and has all the other support systems and is in good condition and doesnt need a lot more work for 35k where do I sign up, I want 5!!!!!!!! Not meaning to be an ass but how many high hp GTR's have you been in???? Have you ever been is a genuine 400rwkw GTR they arent really a pleasure to drive, they are loud, rattly, have killer drivelines, not something you want to drive everyday, at least I wouldnt. The thing is there is such a huge different between a 300-340rwk gtr and a genuine 400rwkw+ GTR. IF I were you I would buy a nice stocker, do some mods yourself get it doing around 280rwkw, and you will have a nice car that is still practicle and wont cost you the earth in repairs matenance and build cost. Then you will have money to save for a house!!

Cheers,

Edited by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

hear,hear, daniel...ive got a 500rwhp r32 gtr that is impossible to drive as a daily driver...the triple plate clutch is impossible in traffic...the exhaust is like a jet engine...twin high mount turbos dont hit boost until 5500rpm so you are doing like 80km/h before the turbos kick in, so it cant be driven to its potential on the streets...but its like lightning in a straight line! (at the drags of course :P ) Veilside r33 you can buy mine for 37k...im in perth! :)

Fitzpatrick:

Step 1: Go back through the thread and read the bit where i said "It won't be my daily i'll only take it out on weekends and occassionally at night"

Step 2: Kick self for being an ass.

Step 3: Talk to WRXKilla who recently sold his very well built GTR with over 400awkw for around $34,000

Step 4: Kick self again

and yes, for the record i have been in several high horse power GTR's and yes i know they are pricks to drive and you'd be crazy to want one as you daily, but once again at what point did i ever mention I wanted it as my daily? you've made several assumptions and seem to think i'm an idiot based upon them.

Fact is, i know what these cars are like at these power levels, i've been in them and it is possible to get a well built, reliable GTR putting out that power level for 35k, yes it is a great deal but they crop up every so often. And for the record I'd stretch myself further to buy the right one, 35k is by no means my limit but for now i wouldn't want to go to far past it.

Again, I don't mean to sound like a prick but when you say things like that and assume I don't know what i'm talking about then don't expect me to be happy about it.

Edited by Veilside R33

Mate you are the one thats needs kicking!!!

Don't come in here asking for advice then shut down those you don't like the responses to. Sounds like you already know what to do, so don't go showboating and do it!!!

Now shall I kick myself????

  Fitzpatrick Speed Works said:
I dont know who you have talked to but in all honesty you are kidding yourself if you are willing or want to drive a car with over 500hp at the wheels as a daily driver, thats nearly 700hp at the engine. People just dont understand how much stress is placed on an 2.6 litre engine making that much power not to mention the rest of the drivetrain. if you can buy a GTR doing these number repeatably and has all the other support systems and is in good condition and doesnt need a lot more work for 35k where do I sign up, I want 5!!!!!!!! Not meaning to be an ass but how many high hp GTR's have you been in???? Have you ever been is a genuine 400rwkw GTR they arent really a pleasure to drive, they are loud, rattly, have killer drivelines, not something you want to drive everyday, at least I wouldnt. The thing is there is such a huge different between a 300-340rwk gtr and a genuine 400rwkw+ GTR. IF I were you I would buy a nice stocker, do some mods yourself get it doing around 280rwkw, and you will have a nice car that is still practicle and wont cost you the earth in repairs matenance and build cost. Then you will have money to save for a house!!

Cheers,

I don't agree :P I own a genuine 400awkw + GTR that has been daily driven for the last 4mths and i can say that it is quite friendly as a fellow sau member that was going for a drive with me stated that mine was alot smoother than his and his is quite mild. i guess its the quality of workmanship that goes into these cars that makes the difference.

  JUN 2.7L said:
I don't agree :P I own a genuine 400awkw + GTR that has been daily driven for the last 4mths and i can say that it is quite friendly as a fellow sau member that was going for a drive with me stated that mine was alot smoother than his and his is quite mild. i guess its the quality of workmanship that goes into these cars that makes the difference.

Agreed completely. I had the fortunate pleasure of going in JUN 2.7L's car when it was running 500awkw and it drives better than every stock one I have been in (except its a bit laggier, as to be expected). His car is driven in this trim all day every day with a driveline thats not to be sneezed at (rated for double the power he is currently making) and its a beautiful car to ride in. It put to rest any misconceptions I ever had after hearing people say large camshafts and dog boxes ruin a street car.

Now when do I get to drive it Nick, so I can comment on how it feels from the drivers seat? :P

EDIT: I believe Leewah drives his car daily as well. Wind up the boost on that thing and its run 617kw.

Edited by Amaru

I used to drive mine on a daily business until I bought the Mazda 6. My car could be used as a daily driver as long as you are prepared to put up with the heavier clutch, noisy exhaust, horrific fuel consumption and without the creature comforts required for daily city driving like a decent stereo, leather, sun roof and cruise control.

It all depends on what a person's tolerance is in regards to using the car as a daily driver. As I work in the city and most of the driving was city peak hour, it just wasn't feasible for me to use it everyday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...