Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30det/tt Gtr Conversion Thread


rev210

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks for the heads up on the plate, ( proengins)

well had a go at making a wedge, first attempt nearly lost my finger, with the grinder.

but got there in the end, god 2mm one side 10mm the other side then drill out the center to fit over the thread.

but all on now and straight, all gaps the same to water pump studs 4mm, so well chuffed.

piccy

003.jpg

002.jpg

001-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

you cant use any other engine mount dave, because as it is there's 2 parts of fook all clearance between the bottom of the diff and the cross member. i posted a pic in here somewhere showing how close it sits

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah with the sump adapter there's not a whole lot of clearance to the cross member (I've only worked with an R32 GTS4 but for all intents and purposes should be the same).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so, rd28 engine mounts solve the bonnet clearance issue? or is there something else? ive tried reading it all but no definative answer.

if u are enquiring about an rb30 in a gtr, u need to use the same mounts. u can slot the mount holes but not recommended due to lack of clearance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
lol i gain an extra 200kg (stagea) over a gtr but my bonnet shuts without an issue with covers on and twin turbo pipe on :D I'd still rather lose 200kg and need less power lol.

I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like? i want around 500hp at wheels mark on 18-20psi. Im running a freshened bottom end but still stock rods and duratech cast pistons, so still around the 8:1 comp ratio. I dont care if the thing blows to bits i wanna see how long it will last :down: My head is stock 26 with no port work and stock cams at the moment which wont help either, but bolt in cams are always a future option.

Ive got GTRS's, i want to swap them for dash 5's in the next month or so.

What rear does your set have?

Drivability is pretty much perfect as Marko said. Only things id change are turbos and cams

ok cool. just gotta figure out how im going to fit my s372r borg warner turbo in there...

Harden up mate, iraqi sand dune nissan patrol racer style right out the bonnet level with the roofline :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Maybe someone get shed some light on my current set-up and the issues I am having...

Im running a built RB30 bottom end with standard 25 vct head. The old set-up was running a GT3082r (0.82r) with 6 boost and supporting mods and made 280rwkw @ 17psi. This is through a built 5speed auto, fully manualised with 4500rpm stall.

I then changed to a GT35R with the same mods. On 11psi, the car made 246rwkw @ 7100rpm. We then upped the boost to 18psi, however the car only went 260rwkw and stopped making power after 6000rpm (sharply).

Any ideas what this could be? A few people have mentioned valve float but I also dont know how to verify this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What size rear housing on the 35R and what size exhaust? cat? sounds like a restriction..

.82r ... its the exact same housing as the older 30R but just machined out to fit the larger exhaust wheel. No cat, just a muffle towards the end of the system (being a 3" mandrel).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...