Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks for the heads up on the plate, ( proengins)

well had a go at making a wedge, first attempt nearly lost my finger, with the grinder.

but got there in the end, god 2mm one side 10mm the other side then drill out the center to fit over the thread.

but all on now and straight, all gaps the same to water pump studs 4mm, so well chuffed.

piccy

003.jpg

002.jpg

001-1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

you cant use any other engine mount dave, because as it is there's 2 parts of fook all clearance between the bottom of the diff and the cross member. i posted a pic in here somewhere showing how close it sits

so, rd28 engine mounts solve the bonnet clearance issue? or is there something else? ive tried reading it all but no definative answer.

if u are enquiring about an rb30 in a gtr, u need to use the same mounts. u can slot the mount holes but not recommended due to lack of clearance

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
lol i gain an extra 200kg (stagea) over a gtr but my bonnet shuts without an issue with covers on and twin turbo pipe on :D I'd still rather lose 200kg and need less power lol.

I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like? i want around 500hp at wheels mark on 18-20psi. Im running a freshened bottom end but still stock rods and duratech cast pistons, so still around the 8:1 comp ratio. I dont care if the thing blows to bits i wanna see how long it will last :down: My head is stock 26 with no port work and stock cams at the moment which wont help either, but bolt in cams are always a future option.

Ive got GTRS's, i want to swap them for dash 5's in the next month or so.

What rear does your set have?

Drivability is pretty much perfect as Marko said. Only things id change are turbos and cams

ok cool. just gotta figure out how im going to fit my s372r borg warner turbo in there...

Harden up mate, iraqi sand dune nissan patrol racer style right out the bonnet level with the roofline :laugh:

  • 1 month later...

Maybe someone get shed some light on my current set-up and the issues I am having...

Im running a built RB30 bottom end with standard 25 vct head. The old set-up was running a GT3082r (0.82r) with 6 boost and supporting mods and made 280rwkw @ 17psi. This is through a built 5speed auto, fully manualised with 4500rpm stall.

I then changed to a GT35R with the same mods. On 11psi, the car made 246rwkw @ 7100rpm. We then upped the boost to 18psi, however the car only went 260rwkw and stopped making power after 6000rpm (sharply).

Any ideas what this could be? A few people have mentioned valve float but I also dont know how to verify this.

What size rear housing on the 35R and what size exhaust? cat? sounds like a restriction..

.82r ... its the exact same housing as the older 30R but just machined out to fit the larger exhaust wheel. No cat, just a muffle towards the end of the system (being a 3" mandrel).

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...