Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks for the heads up on the plate, ( proengins)

well had a go at making a wedge, first attempt nearly lost my finger, with the grinder.

but got there in the end, god 2mm one side 10mm the other side then drill out the center to fit over the thread.

but all on now and straight, all gaps the same to water pump studs 4mm, so well chuffed.

piccy

003.jpg

002.jpg

001-1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

you cant use any other engine mount dave, because as it is there's 2 parts of fook all clearance between the bottom of the diff and the cross member. i posted a pic in here somewhere showing how close it sits

so, rd28 engine mounts solve the bonnet clearance issue? or is there something else? ive tried reading it all but no definative answer.

if u are enquiring about an rb30 in a gtr, u need to use the same mounts. u can slot the mount holes but not recommended due to lack of clearance

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
lol i gain an extra 200kg (stagea) over a gtr but my bonnet shuts without an issue with covers on and twin turbo pipe on :D I'd still rather lose 200kg and need less power lol.

I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like? i want around 500hp at wheels mark on 18-20psi. Im running a freshened bottom end but still stock rods and duratech cast pistons, so still around the 8:1 comp ratio. I dont care if the thing blows to bits i wanna see how long it will last :down: My head is stock 26 with no port work and stock cams at the moment which wont help either, but bolt in cams are always a future option.

Ive got GTRS's, i want to swap them for dash 5's in the next month or so.

What rear does your set have?

Drivability is pretty much perfect as Marko said. Only things id change are turbos and cams

ok cool. just gotta figure out how im going to fit my s372r borg warner turbo in there...

Harden up mate, iraqi sand dune nissan patrol racer style right out the bonnet level with the roofline :laugh:

  • 1 month later...

Maybe someone get shed some light on my current set-up and the issues I am having...

Im running a built RB30 bottom end with standard 25 vct head. The old set-up was running a GT3082r (0.82r) with 6 boost and supporting mods and made 280rwkw @ 17psi. This is through a built 5speed auto, fully manualised with 4500rpm stall.

I then changed to a GT35R with the same mods. On 11psi, the car made 246rwkw @ 7100rpm. We then upped the boost to 18psi, however the car only went 260rwkw and stopped making power after 6000rpm (sharply).

Any ideas what this could be? A few people have mentioned valve float but I also dont know how to verify this.

What size rear housing on the 35R and what size exhaust? cat? sounds like a restriction..

.82r ... its the exact same housing as the older 30R but just machined out to fit the larger exhaust wheel. No cat, just a muffle towards the end of the system (being a 3" mandrel).

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...