Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know about the ecu.But you can buy a Electonic hicas lock kit.Which dissengages the switch that activates the hicas.You also get shims that lock the arms in place.

I think the hicas unit works off of hydraulic fluid but im not sure if it is independant or if it has lines that lead from the front of the car/power assist.

Does any1 know.

So the r33 is electric.

can any1 confirm that notion.

Do you have a list of the differing hydraulic and electric hicas units!!

If so mine can be removed.

The only problem would be the arms that lead to unit.They would have to be locked again somehow.

Thanks Greg - you only lose 2kg????

Somebody was saying 20kg?? How much does the standard bar + electric motor weigh. Maybe it isn't worth doing for weight saving. Maybe for handling though..

I'm going to get a wheel alignment soon but need to replace front shocksfirst and thinking about the lock bar..

Thanks Greg - you only lose 2kg????

Somebody was saying 20kg??  How much does the standard bar + electric motor weigh.  Maybe it isn't worth doing for weight saving.  Maybe for handling though..

The R32's loose 20 kgs as their HICAS system is full hydrualic with heavy stainless steel solenoids and hoses and much larger hydraulic rear steering rack.

:unsure: cheers :)

Right.  So on the R33 the best you can hope for is about 5kg?

We have one of GTRGeoff's HICAS replacement bars for the project R33GTST. I hope to have timt to fit it this week. I will weigh what we take off and post it up.

:( cheers :)

I removed mine with one of GTRGeoffs lock bars, my guess is you save about 3-5kg but thats not what I did it for. The car is far more stable in high speed corners and seems far more stable under heavy braking (tested that on Tuesday at QLD raceway). Worthwile mod.

I have had no problems with low speed power steering getting heavy.

Thanks guys.

SK - If you could do that that would be great!

JC Marshall - did you keep the HICAS computer etc in the boot?

Yep, I just removed the HICAS fuse in the boot fuse box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...