Rb26 Inside

[Amaru]

Well I believe good deeds should go rewarded, and also once people have their engines built they never usually have them apart again.

So I thought I would post some pics of the internals of my engine. The engine was rebuilt in mid 2003 and has since covered a touch over 30,000kms running between 300 and 350rwkw. As like most GTR drivers I look after my car, but to put it honestly, I also flog the guts out of it alot of the time too (any GTR owner who says they dont is a liar!) so I was curious as to what condition the internals would be in once stripped down being driven hard alot with that much power on a relatively stockish engine.

The rebuild included a slight overbore (20 thou) due to some mild scoring on the bore, Arias forged pistons, standard conrods shot peened with ARP2000 rod bolts, new main and conrod bearings, bit of head porting and polishing. Just your basic bare bones rebuild I guess with a bit of added strength. I have attatched some pictures of the cylinder bore, main bearings, conrod bearings and piston. The worst part of the engine was the piston which is covered in carbon due to running rich, but besides that the engine still looks almost like brand new. Hone marks still visible on the bore with no scoring, main bearings still look nice and fresh, same with rod bearings. The only thing that appears to have copped a flogging was the oil pump (no crank collar), which is showing some signs of wear. I will post up a pic so people know what the problem actually is/looks like.

Anyway, nothing really overly exciting in this thread, just thought some people may be curious as to what such an engine would look like on the inside after a decent amount of km's. A big thanks goes to Greg and Warren at Pro Engines (www.proengines.com.au) who originally built the engine, which has stood the test of time quite well indicating it was an excellent rebuild (I was expecting a lot more carnage to have gone on internally). If you need a rebuild, see these guys!

[Amaru]

And the oil pump with red circles around the wear points...

[s13rb26]

Are you trying to say GTR's should always run better oil pumps ? I.e JUN, ETC?

[Beer Baron]

no i think he's saying 32 owners would be wise to either run a 33 crank and pump, or a 32 crank with a collar and a 33 pump.

[Amaru]

Are you trying to say GTR's should always run better oil pumps ? I.e JUN, ETC?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, im saying any pre 1994 R32 GTR owner should fit a crank collar or R33 GTR crank. That oil pump didnt have much life left in it before it would have let go... even a wee bit too much throttle at cold oil temp could have been enough to see it go bang. The crank collar extends the drive on the crankshaft into the oil pump so its not a problem anymore. The 1994 R32's and all R33 and R34's came with a longer drive for the oil pump from the factory.

[FATGTS-R]

Nice thread, thanks for taking the time.

May I ask what the run in procedure was and what oil you have used during the 30K?

Also why did you pull it apart?

[Ronin 09]

might be elsewhere on the boards... but why is it apart?

[Amaru]

Nice thread, thanks for taking the time.

May I ask what the run in procedure was and what oil you have used during the 30K?

Also why did you pull it apart?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Run in was 500km on mineral oil never using more than 25% throttle, then it drank nothing but Motul 300V Chrono. Fronm 500km to 1000kms used 50% throttle and put some more load on the engine, did another oil change at 1000, did another 1000kms going easy on it, changed the oil and flgoged the guts out of it

Its apart to get the crank collar fixed... the recent thread on here of the conrod exiting out the side of the block worried me enough to spend the cash to get it done

[RB30-POWER]

haha, how much carbon can you get onto the piston.

tune it a little leaner, or else the carbon will get hot, glow and cause pre-ignition from the hot spots.

and then bye bye motor.

when you re-asemble are you going to rehone and use new rings or does it all just go back together again as is?

[MattSR]

Nice work Amaru, good to see someone taking proper care of their 'line

[WetGTR]

Nice thread! These guys at Proengines are guns!

They always do a top job

[markimak]

30kms... looks still fairly healthy.. how much was ur rebuild?

[BHDave]

Nice.

Out of interest, what sort of afr's wer you running on cruise and wot to get so much carbon on there?

[savage GTR]

my 32 gtr has done 160,000 kays and still going stong ie[292rwk] ?was this rebuild needed??

[savage GTR]

and by the way what did it cost ? and what was the block like ie no cracks between welsh plug and oil cooling lines[common fault with rb engines] , n1 block ?

[Amaru]

AFR's were stupidly rich when running on boost, hence all the carbon. It needed a rebuild 30000k's ago because a valve guide had broken and scored the cylinder bore slightly (hence the reason for the overbore too). No cracking, no problem with oil cooling lines, all a-ok.

The rebuild was fairly cheap, cant remember the exact price, but it wasnt alot. The reason its apart again is to fit a crank collar and new oil pump to it, then its all being slapped back together again with a fresh set of rings (and minus the carbon on the pistons). I noticed you have a 94 model GTR, in which case every one I have seen came fitted with an R33 crank from factory, so the crank collar shouldnt be a problem for you.

[MattSR]

Amaru, how rich is 'stupidly rich?' Are you talking like < 10:1 or low 11's?

Cheers & Regards,

Matt

[Amaru]

Low 11's

[rob82]

Low 11's

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I dont mean to sound patronising but why would you spend all that money on a build and then not have it tuned correctly??

[RB30-POWER]

Thats alot of carbon for low 11's, just under high load.

How is the cruise mixtures around 14.7:1 or rich as well?

Im no expert by any means, but to get carbon like that, it would take more then just running a bit rich under boost. It would have to be running rich every where.