Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have a hoist its pretty easy .

drop the gearbox crossmember and you can get to the top bolts easy with a long extention, then use a short spanner to undo the top starter bolt from underneath, a U shaped spanner is ideal .

Undo the attessa pipe and block it so you dont drain the reservoir in the boot, undo the tailshaft, the rail brace under the car,front pipes, unplug the loom, undo the slave, front driveshaft and dont forget the gearstick( take it off ) .

If you have a pull clutch dont forget to release the fork too. You have to bleed the attessa when you put the box back in .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1962090
Share on other sites

its a fun job when you got the car on car stands.. lol. its pretty easy but take your time in making sure you got everything undone and out of the way before dropping it. just follow what wrxhoon as said and you 'll be right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1962530
Share on other sites

nice and heavy too, watch it dooesnt fall on you :)

i did mine in and out atleast 10 times about 6 months ago when i had clutch troubles and that was within a week. :unsure:

u get quicker thats for sure, ended up all out in about 45 min in the end and an hour to put it all back or something stupid haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1962581
Share on other sites

The g/box has a drain plug( under it ) and a fill plug on the side .

The transfer case is the same and the attessa in the boot has a bleed valve under it ( under the car) , undo that and let it drain out but you will have to bleed it to refill the boot reservoir.

Attessa and trasfer case use ATF.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1962958
Share on other sites

thx mate so do i fill it till its full??

and wat is ATF

Fill the g/box and the transfer case until it starts coming out of the filler hole .

About 3.8 lts and 1.8lt from memory .

The attessa you have to fill to the max mark .

ATF= auto tranny fluid . You can always go to Nissan and pay X3 for it if you want to have the same colour !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1966627
Share on other sites

If you have a hoist its pretty easy .

drop the gearbox crossmember and you can get to the top bolts easy with a long extention, then use a short spanner to undo the top starter bolt from underneath, a U shaped spanner is ideal .

Undo the attessa pipe and block it so you dont drain the reservoir in the boot, undo the tailshaft, the rail brace under the car,front pipes, unplug the loom, undo the slave, front driveshaft and dont forget the gearstick( take it off ) .

If you have a pull clutch dont forget to release the fork too. You have to bleed the attessa when you put the box back in .

OMG 5 second guide to dropping a GTR gearbox!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106342-gtr-gear-box/#findComment-1969556
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...