Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Well this weekend i bit the bullet and bought some new deep dish wheels out of my money

all good when i first saw em on drives way better,

but then taking a second look the rear wheels from behind they seem to stick out to far and im qite worried about getting defected for em dont get me wrong i love the way they look but wanna try keep it from getting defected if i can

so in the same day as getting them i have had the rear wheels taken off and called up wheel worx he suggested that when my car is lowered it would be alot better which he may be right? but they stick out qite a bit and are on a angle from the camber

the tyres for the rear also are a size to small as they dont meet the rim well ,so if i get bigger tyres for the rim then it will stick out even more im guessing?

i spoke with him bout it and ordered 2 of the front ones for the rear

but i really dont think it would look as good cause there meant to have more dish on the rear

im not sure how to post pics up on here is there a place i can upload em il try ? i took a few with my phone b4 i took the rears off i think lowering it will improve it but cant be certain?

Also the have put to smaller tyres on the rear so it would stick out even more with bigger tyres

any input is much appreciated kinda stressin here

sorry for the long post

and my bad grammer

Cheers

post-17435-1140354805.jpgpost-17435-1140354945.jpgpost-17435-1140355159.jpgpost-17435-1140355504.jpg

Edited by R32skyline93
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106486-rear-deep-dish-wheels-to-big/
Share on other sites

Ur wheels look shit hot IMO. I'm assuming getting the same wheel in a bigger offset is out of the question. It will probably look slightly better after lowering but with that much camber u are going to chew through ur tyres really quickly. Other option is to get ur guards lipped or flared so you can still lower it without having that much camber dialed in. LAst option would be to choose a different set. Tough choice but good luck with it!

exact same wheels as mine, on the back you should have 265's but when you lower it, it will look better, from what i see they arent defectable, they dont stick outta the body of the car too much, they sit nice, if you go the same size all the way around it doesnt look as good, but its up to you, before i lowered my car it looked the same.

dave...

I wouldn't worry about it. My rears stick out a good 5mm from the guards (if you put a ruler on the outside of the guard haha), I have cops behind me all the time and i've never been pulled over. I don't think the cops really care hey. Well they don't seem to over here....

It also helps to have a good driving record, not attract attention to yourself and not have anything else obviously wrong with the car. My car isn't low and it's pretty plain, and I drive in a conservative fashion most of the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...