Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering are there anyways of checking a 2nd hand rb26 (which is out of the car) to see if its healthy or not? What do you need to look out for? :) Any tips will be appreciated as I am considering purchasing one.

Thanks

Phil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106580-rb26-which-is-no-in-the-car/
Share on other sites

If you can't open up the engine (remove head and sump) then you could do the following.

Compression and leak down test, most auto workshops can do it. This test will give you an indication of the health of the rings / bore and valves.

Start it if you can.

Pressure test the cooling system.

General look of the engine, is it clean or is there oil and/or coolant stains.

Do the turbo shafts have any play.

Does it show any signs of serious heat stress - burnt paint or melted electrical connections.

Is there a hole in the block with a conrod hanging out of it :)

May not tell you much, but you could check the condition of the oil (if it as the same oil it was last running with)

If you can pull it apart:

Remove the cam covers and check condition of everything in there - cams, lifters, valve stems, etc

Remove head - check condition of bore and pistons

Remove sump and check big end conditions - bearings, crank etc.

Other than that - take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

well u cant really do coolant presure check with it out of the car. compression test is a must!. look of the engine. remove the oil cap and not any gunk around the lip and any white coolant around the cap.. white noramally means coolant leak(blown head gasket).. check seals. u got engine out cheack rear main. turn the crank over a few times.. if the engine is really bad it might make a noise. inspect belts. check tappet cover gasket. check sump seal. check if the nissan stickers on the exhast cam have been ripped.atleast take a plug out inspect tip. look down the plug hole inspect carbon build up.

get a warranty on it.

what is the purpsose of the engine? gonna drop it in a gtst? a silvia..? ;) hope it helps.

Thanks for the help guys.

No warranty as this is a private sales. Well i am either gonna go down the road of rebuilding mine, or getting a 2nd hand motor for my r32 gtr. cheaper to buy a 2nd hand motor, but im worried i will buy one that will only last me a few 1000k's. More expensive to rebuild but at least I will know its going to be reliable.

the guy selling the engine is pretty close to me and I think its bet I take it down to a workshop for the pros to check it for me.

Hes actually selling the motor here. maybe u guys have seen the thread. This is the picture he sent me. what do ya think?post-23859-1140430907.jpg

Edited by PhilGTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...