Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's mine, I went through home at lunchtime so I e-mailed it to myself at work

The engine isn't in an R34, it's in an R31 but it's much of a muchness I guess.

Only mods are a full 3" mandrel exhaust from turbo back (non split dump) and high flow cat, Just Jap 600x300 FMIC and a Blitz pod. Stock boost and stock ECU.

It's pretty similar to yours, I wouldn't be worried that yours is weak or anything.

Was yours dyno'd in 4th gear?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You should have dynod car before you modified it, then you would no if you made any improvement, probably best not to shoot your mouth off as you have no idea what car made in stock form. if you are seeing an extra 2 pound of boost, the exhaust mod is clearly working. Put some boost in it and the dump pipe will come into its own.

Oh so I am making 10psi with this setup? Fair enough then, no need for EBC or boost tap then haha

I know its a linear curve and all which is good for a stockish car. I dont have a pod, just a apexi panel filter. And I dont think Im making 25psi, I believe its 10? Correct me if I am wrong hahah And with regards to BATMBLs pipes, doesnt seem like it made much of a difference, maybe its just my setup but the 16rwkw claim for the dump pipe alone just doesnt add up with my sums.

I expected:

10-15 from the split dump

maybe 5-10 for the cat

and another 5-10 for the cat back.

So worst case should be a 20rwkw gain, best case, 30ish??

I heard somewhere that for every 1PSI of boost wound up; it works out to being 11rwkw more :)

I'm running 200rwkw on 7psi now; can't wait to wind it up to 18psi :)

As people have said, just crank up the boost!

  • 11 months later...

Yes, it's an old thread, I know, I was looking for something else entirely (looking for dyno graphs from a certain workshop to compare with)

Anyway, I noticed on the first dyno graph that has been posted, the car has been run in the wrong shootout mode. This WILL affect your power read out.

The car should have been run in Shoot_6F, not Shoot_6.

This affects ramp rating, and internal measurements etc.

I didn't really wanna add to this topic since it's an old one, but how/why is the whole "should have been run in Shoot_6F, not Shoot_6" going to make such a difference, exactly? (without repeating the ramp rating etc - just a clearer answer)

Edited by so_tred

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, replacing all those hoses is kind of just bog standard if you're ever back there. Only hose on the back of the engine I have yet to replace is a vacuum hose for the wastegate. I'll probably do it eventually but it's in such an annoying spot.
    • I was actually just planning on replacing the fourth gear parts in the gear box that I broke … like the synchro hub or cone. And any other parts I need once I open up the transmission. That a bad idea? The rest of the gears feel tight. these parts shouldn’t be too much … just the labour here won’t be cheap. Just replacing these in HK would be around 2k aud including labour.    how much is a new r33 or r32 transmission?    thanks for the good info as usual       
    • I chose a bad time to buy, at the time there was no gtst's for sale in NSW and my options were qld, vic, or sa and not the greatest examples or too far out of my budget. Ended up picking this one from adelaide sight unseen and got a bit stitched up as you could expect but i dont fully regret it, its just a shame people cant be more transparent in this day and age.
    • IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly. If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.
    • Little hose. Big hose. They're all waiting to kill the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...