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i would well and truly choose the gtrs over a gt30 anyday.. especialy for its direct bolt on feature were as gt30 top mount mani, gate, blah blah blah you know the usual big snail mod

So your saying the people that have VG30 housings (internally gated) and fitted arent using a "bolt on" style turbo?

Not every GT30 has to be externally gated

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i would well and truly choose the gtrs over a gt30 anyday.. especialy for its direct bolt on feature were as gt30 top mount mani, gate, blah blah blah you know the usual big snail mod

the gtrs is well and truly capable of making 250rwkw on a rb20 with the supporting mods ive found the garrett equivilant and a friend of mine is tryin that soon on his rb20 so will be awesome to see

What is the garrett equivelant?

I had a look at the garrett sight and found the GT2871R to be close to the GTRs specs.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_472560_15.htm

they rate it at 385HP.

Do the HKS turbos use more blades or something like that?

I think re reading the original post the ask was for approx 230Kw with lots of mid range because the present turbo doesn't shove in the back till 4500rpm and full boost (16) till 6000 . My personal opinion is than any of these hybrids (2871 ie GT28 turbine , GT35 compressor) like engines with fewer larger cylinders ie 2L 4 .

RB20's are no Massi Furgeson at low revs and need torque to give them some sting on a road car . Driving such a car with production gearing is frustrating if life starts at 4500 revs . My experience is that turbos with more airflow capacity than is requited is an exercise in creating boost lag , if you then throw in the biased compressor to turbine load imbalance its not going to be super responsive no matter what housings it wears .

I wish data loggers were available so that people could see how they drive road cars 90% of the time , then they could make mods that feel good 95% of the time and be happy with them 95% of the time . I feel the truth of the matter is that a wide fat torque line in the middle feels good because you don't have to wait through several thousand revs to find some squirt . People like Corky Bell (Maximum Boost) will tell you that turbocharging can usually enhance torque between a half and two thirds of your typical engines usable rev range . If you go seeking a full output Kw figure it gives no clues as to how the whole power range looks . I think torque is the aim and if you could get enough of it who cares what the red line does . How much time do you spend there and whats the next step when it won't rev any more ? yep the next higher gear and if there's not reasonable torque at that point the whole lot falls flat on it face - useless .

Anyhow enough of that , either a GT2530 or a GT-SS should put it in the 330 od RWHP range and be responsive . The 2871's will be a little less responsive , the GT30's more so and so on .

Your call , cheers A .

discopotato03:

Last year I just made the mistake on going for sheer power and well my 1st post explains the prob. :-)

Just don't want to make the same mistake twice.

But anyhow thanx for all your advise as its appreciated.

To everyone else thanx also for your ideas and I'll let you all know on what I decide and how it goes in the end.

RedDrifter I'm 99% certain the GT-RS uses the same 446179-0067 cartridge as the Garrett GT2871R 52T . The RB specific GT-RS has HKS's own T3 flanged .64 a/r turbine housing and matches the RB's exhaust manifold and dump pipe . The compressor cover is port shrouded to handle the surge that these turbos would have if pushed at low engine revs . These features are what you pay extra for over a Garrett GT2871R 52T if you could buy it . You can buy HKS's turbine housings to at least make the Garrett marketed item "bolt on" but your on your own with the comp cover . ATP turbo sell GT2871R's without turbine housings as an upgrade path for the GT28RS (GT2860RS) and others would too . Crunch the numbers .

Cheers A .

The T518z is the T25 flanged TD05H-18G. It has custom housings on both sides to make it a true bolt on for an SR20. This includes bolting onto the stock dump pipe, stock hot pipe and stock air intake.

My pal with the T518Z on his S14 is now making 275rwkw, thats pretty phat!!!

Thats a pretty stout figure. See this is where i get confused. How can several RB25s with the bigger TD06-20G max out at around 270-280rwkws, SR20s with T67s make 280oss rwkws. Yet various SR20s make 275rwkws with the smaller bolt on T518Z. The results in have seen in twin form on a GTR also suggest it shoudl struggle to make that sort of power in single form???

So not wantign to start an argument, just get to the bottom of the power firgures that are thrown around.

Without some numbers on the current ITS turbo, it is very difficult to decide if this is a turbo problem or a tuning problem. I am always suspicious when I see "chipped ecu".

If it was my car I would be having a good look at the tuning before I went out and spent my money on a turbo that may not be the real l problem.

An example, I have been working (after hours) on our latest project, an R33GTST. It was getting to 8 psi at 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear, which a few people said was pretty good. I spent a few hours tuning it last week, spread over a couple of days, and got it to 10 psi at 3,000 rpm. No mechanical changes, just tuning.

So, don't give up on the turbo until you are certain that it is the problem.

:P cheers :P

So your saying the people that have VG30 housings (internally gated) and fitted arent using a "bolt on" style turbo?

Not every GT30 has to be externally gated

alrighty.. wats the cost to get a vg30 or rb25 exhaust housing machined to suit gt30 and than gt30 price? than spacer plate.. and all other supporting mods required? i'd much rather go gtrs.. and also i've seen a couple dyno sheets of gt30's and goin off a rb25.. the gt30 is laggier than a gtrs.. so over i'd still rather a hks direct bolt on

Hey SK

was that purely tuning the ECU???

was the EBC tweaked too???

anything else???

thats a fairly huge improvement.

Without some numbers on the current ITS turbo, it is very difficult to decide if this is a turbo problem or a tuning problem. I am always suspicious when I see "chipped ecu".

If it was my car I would be having a good look at the tuning before I went out and spent my money on a turbo that may not be the real l problem.

An example, I have been working (after hours) on our latest project, an R33GTST. It was getting to 8 psi at 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear, which a few people said was pretty good. I spent a few hours tuning it last week, spread over a couple of days, and got it to 10 psi at 3,000 rpm. No mechanical changes, just tuning.

So, don't give up on the turbo until you are certain that it is the problem.

:domokun: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey SK

was that purely tuning the ECU???

was the EBC tweaked too???

anything else???

thats a fairly huge improvement.

I was thinking the same thing, getting that kind of improvement in response is a significant tuning feat :O

If anyone is interested, i will soon be getting a HKS GTRS on my RB20. So i'll put up the results for all to see...

Cheers.

I have an HKSGT2535... I think it's rated for 350ps

isn't the GT2530 rated for 340ps (flywheel or wheel)

i'm currently at 355 flywheel and I was wondering where I could find a flow map for it or the garett equivalent.

I'm at 208RWkW .. and seeing some of you guys with up to 250RWkW on GT2530 kinda makes me wonder :D

if you could look at my dyno sheet in forced induction RB20 mods and tell me what you think might or might not help get a bit more power ..

I'm running at 15 PSI with a conservative A/F ratio of 11.2

thanks mates! :no:

I have an HKSGT2535... I think it's rated for 350ps

isn't the GT2530 rated for 340ps (flywheel or wheel)

i'm currently at 355 flywheel and I was wondering where I could find a flow map for it or the garett equivalent.

I'm at 208RWkW .. and seeing some of you guys with up to 250RWkW on GT2530 kinda makes me wonder :D

if you could look at my dyno sheet in forced induction RB20 mods and tell me what you think might or might not help get a bit more power ..

I'm running at 15 PSI with a conservative A/F ratio of 11.2

thanks mates! :no:

The only problem that you have is that your using poor quality fuel "94 Canadian Octane gas" we are all using 98 octane so this will probably account for some of the missing KW.

You also don't mention the type of ecu you are using - perhaps its poorly tuned?

sydneykid would have increased ignition timing (aka tuning the engine) to bring on the engine more, which would result in more gas created, which makes the exhaust wheel spin earlier

correct ?

Sounds like a "trade secrect" to me mate. :no:

Oh well.

The only problem that you have is that your using poor quality fuel "94 Canadian Octane gas" we are all using 98 octane so this will probably account for some of the missing KW.

You also don't mention the type of ecu you are using - perhaps its poorly tuned?

I would agree. It is amazing the difference good fuel does. I also would think that Running 11.2 is very safe but it will be contributing to the missing power aswell.

Yes i tend to agree, my ECU was tuned by a local tuner. I did ask him to go easy as I want to be on the safe side.. I would however like to go further than 6800RPM my japanese cutoff was set at 8200RPM I still wonder how comme my 400 injectors lean out, or is it the tuning/turbo.. I wanna start downloading ecu .bin soon enough to see how my fuel map is..

And yeah 94 octane gas is as good as it gets here but I've seen/read that 94 here is about like 98 japanese octane...

is running that rich leaning out my injectors when I pump the boost up?

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