Skyline Big Brake Kits Pictured

[pistonfreak]

Hey guys this is not a add or a shameless plug.

I am a full lic. mechanic that is currently working in the high performance brake industry.

Apart from that i would be happy to assist with any brake related questions and become part of Skylines Australia community

Cheers

Brian

Here is some pictures of some of the kits i fit to Skylines.

front kit fitted to a R32 GTR

genuine AP racing

rear kit from AP racing

This one is a R34 skyline kit from Brembo that has 2 piece rotors front and rear.

Brian

[[WLDCRD]]

how much would the AP front and rear setup for a GTR roughly cost? And how big are the rotors?

[pistonfreak]

how much would the AP front and rear setup for a GTR roughly cost? And how big are the rotors?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

WLDCRD

I can say that AP kit isn't cheap

I would prefer not to talk money on the site without invite from admin to do so

But I am happy to talk about the kits or diagnostic questions

the front rotors are 362mm x 32mm strap drive floating disc. Latest rotor from AP racing

the rear rotors are 332mm x 24mm 1 piece

Cheers

Brian

[JeeTeeEss25Tee]

mmm i love big brakes if only my car needs that much stopping power . . .

[Zardos]

Hey guys this is not a add or a shameless plug.

I am a full lic. mechanic that is currently working in the high performance brake industry.

Apart from that i would be happy to assist with any brake related questions and become part of Skylines Australia community

Cheers

Brian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Brian I have been having some trouble my abs unit in my R32 GTR recently and was hoping that you might know of this problem or heard of it around the traps.

On Sunday I started my car and the anti lock light came up on my dash, I check the fuse link in the engine bay and it was blown, I changed the fuse and the left hand side indicators all stay on, I also checked the unit in the boot and the led flashed 8 times.

I have also checked the Actuator terminal and it seams to be ok, maybe the Actuator Relay could be dead,

Sorry for hijacking this thread like this but I though I might ask hear because of Brian’s expertise, any help would be great

[pistonfreak]

Zardos

Electricals are tricky one to work out without the car.

I think your onto the right track checking the relay.

It does sound like a problem that S13's get when lowered and a group of wires coming through the firewall get scrubbed by the wheel causing multiple components to work at the same time. You may have to give me a couple of days to give a more thorough answer concerning the R32 as i'll check with a few mates in the game.

If anyone else has had this problem resolved please help Zardos with some info.

Brian

[leech_]

Hey Brian,

Not sure if you can point me in the right direction and I have heard from others that there is probably not alot I can do but I bought some DBA 4000 slotted rotors about 8 months ago for the front along with a new set of Race Brakes DB74 I think. Anyways the last two months braking at low speeds they squeal like they have just been raped the only way I have found to avoid this is to brake quite firmly as I am stopping then it does not do it. Could it just be the compound of the brake pad eg the low braking pressure is causing it to not really bite in hard enough and as such squeal alot ???

Any advice would be good as this did only start happening a month or two ago. I am going to pull the wheels off later this week and make sure the shims and all that are still seated correctly.

Cheers Leigh

But I am happy to talk about the kits or diagnostic questions

Cheers

Brian

[pistonfreak]

Leigh

That's a very comon complaint about high friction pads

A couple of tricks u can try are. Shamphering the leading and trailing edges off the pad, useing a copper grease between the shims or using galfer anti squeel shims.

I use the combination of shamphering and Galfer's anti squeel shims on my drift car as it runs R32GTR front brakes with DS2500 Ferodo racing pads. That did the trick.

Brian

[funkymonkey]

pistonfreak, you should check out the Braking section of the forum, a lot of people could benefit from your knowledge.

[Zardos]

Zardos

Electricals are tricky one to work out without the car.

I think your onto the right track checking the relay.

It does sound like a problem that S13's get when lowered and a group of wires coming through the firewall get scrubbed by the wheel causing multiple components to work at the same time. You may have to give me a couple of days to give a more thorough answer concerning the R32 as i'll check with a few mates in the game.

If anyone else has had this problem resolved please help Zardos with some info.

Brian

thanks very much for helping me out brian, as you said Electricals are tricky and very time comsuming which i want to avoid a auto elect because it could take them a while to fid the problem and at $55 per hour i would rather do most of the ground work my self before i go there, just to save some dollars.

Once again thanks guys..

[Ronin 09]

Brian - where are you based?

I need hats and brackets for my R32GTR...

see thread here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106844]thanks

[PranK]

Pistonfreak, I am happy to have your knowledge on the forums and provided you dont try to sell your products directly, I am happy to have you post rough prices for the members. In my opinion its the one area of cars that is still very grey, not many people know enough about braking.

Hope that helps,

Christian

[Tangles]

Does any1 do Wave rotors for cars?

Ive got some Galfer Wave rotors on my Fireblade - they are awesome with braided lines and sintered HH pads.... so how about for cars?

[pistonfreak]

Pistonfreak, I am happy to have your knowledge on the forums and provided you dont try to sell your products directly, I am happy to have you post rough prices for the members. In my opinion its the one area of cars that is still very grey, not many people know enough about braking.

Hope that helps,

Christian

Thanks Christian

No interest in sales. As I'm the Mechanic at V-sport (the sister company to BSM and competition friction)so I don't get a com. on anything sold. So if you need prices direct them to the companies mentioned as if you have looked them up for yourself. I don't get to see much priceing anyway

As stated I can help with tech info if needed. B)

I work with R&D of race brake systems and do tech support at the race track (Gee works hard). And the fitments of genuine Brembo and AP racing brake kits.

the rough ball park figure of the systems pictured is around $10,000 front and rear.

Would you mind if i just added a link to the V-sport site to my signature

Cheers

Brian

[justinfox]

$10k +

If any car needs better brakes it's a GT-R. Especially the R32 GT-R. I've upgraded the fronts to R33 GT-R Brembos and they're better... but still not great.

Question then. Simple one too. Would it be AOK if I was to just upgrade to 6-pot front brakes and leave the stock R32 GT-R brakes on the rear? I know this would be un-balanced but how bad would it be? Worse than just living with the Brembos I have on the car now? Or still... better?

[djr81]

$10k +

If any car needs better brakes it's a GT-R. Especially the R32 GT-R. I've upgraded the fronts to R33 GT-R Brembos and they're better... but still not great.

Question then. Simple one too. Would it be AOK if I was to just upgrade to 6-pot front brakes and leave the stock R32 GT-R brakes on the rear? I know this would be un-balanced but how bad would it be? Worse than just living with the Brembos I have on the car now? Or still... better?

Justin,

You need to match the piston area in the calipers if you are to keep the front/rear bias as is presently is. The Brembos have an area 5300mm2 so look for a caliper that has a number close to that. Bigger pads will help too as the Brembo's pad is basically the same size as the stock R32 pad, ie 116 x 50mm.

[JCMarshall_Law]

Hey pistonfreak

I've got a r33 GTST skyline that I take out to track days a few times a year. Last track day was Tuesday this week and I ran into some big brake fade issues. Firstly I noticed something was wrong when I came back into the pist after 5 hot laps of the clubman track at QLD raceway, the pedal felt mushy but I was still able to get adequate braking and with a few pumps of the pedal the pressure came back up... but dies off again after a few seconds (I did not have braking issues while on the track). This went away as the brakes cooled.

Firstly can you give me any idea why this was happening and how do I fix it.

The next time I noticed was when it had more serious concequences, I was on the 5th lap of the national circuit at the end of the main straight going 190km/h, when I got on the brakes not much happened, I knew what was happening but it was still unexpected because there was no warning. I ended off in the kitty litter at around 100km/h.

Specs of my current setup:

1) Standard rotors front and rear (fronts machined just before the track day so down to about 28-29mm thick) Standard rotors are not slotted and are 297mm diameter.

2) Standard calipers front and rear.

3) Feredo pads front (brand new before track day), Nizmo rear (older but plenty of meat)

4) Standard brake lines.

5) Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid

6) Backing plates still installed.

7) master cylinder support

My car is not a serious track machine and is still putting out pretty much stock power (exhaust and pod mods only) I've done a bit of work on the suspension - nizmo struts front, bilstien rear, standard springs, whiteline swaybars, HICAS removed, subframe bushes, front strut tower brace. I don't ever plant of putting out more than 200rwkW and I'm pretty much happy with the suspension. I'm currently lapping the QR clubman track at 70 seconds flat.

Can you give me any advice on a economic setup to prevent this in the future? I dont want to change calipers and I'm not all that keen on adaptors for the callipers to fit bigger rotors (I'm sure they would flex too much causing more problems - what is your opinion?)

My plan was to remove the backing plates front and rear, install braded brake lines and use some DBA4000 sloted brake rotors up front. Does that seem like a reasonable setup? Will this setup keep me going (stopping ) if my power output goes up?

Some tricky questions I know, but if you can shed any light on the issue at all it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Patrick.

[pistonfreak]

Patrick

There is some reasons for this happening, It is because you live in a humid climate in QLD, and your system will absorb alot water.

The upgrade to braided lines will help pedal pressure and stop from absorbing so much water

removal of the baking plates is also a great idea and works well in reducing temps.

I would strongly advise moving up to a 660 degree AP racing fluid

DBA 4000 series slotted rotors will work well also.

It seems you are on the right track and answered your own questions well.

Cheers

Brian

[JCMarshall_Law]

Cheers mate,

The brake fluid was only a week old as well so I did not suspect it could be water absorbed in the fluid.

I think I'll be going with that plan I posted above.

Cheers

[Roy]

Hey guys this is not a add or a shameless plug.

I am a full lic. mechanic that is currently working in the high performance brake industry.

Apart from that i would be happy to assist with any brake related questions and become part of Skylines Australia community

Cheers

Brian

Here is some pictures of some of the kits i fit to Skylines.

front kit fitted to a R32 GTR

genuine AP racing

rear kit from AP racing

Are they 7600 rears? Or have you increased the rear rotor size as well?