Jump to content
SAU Community

Hiflowing Rb25 Injectors


ZILLA01
 Share

Recommended Posts

i havent got hiflowed injectors, but in my opinion i would go either nismo ones, or another brand that flow how much ya need.

As with hiflowing the standard injectors, there is a possibility of not getting the injectors to flow all to the same capacity. Is this correct as only from what i have heard?

Having hiflow injectors flowing all the same, i guess would be great and cost effective, but i'd rather have brand spankers out of the box.

Will be keeping an eye on the post, from ppl who do have hiflow injectors and other ppls opinions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiflowed injectors? Interesting, i did a search and didnt come up with anything, but I thought the only way to get more out your standard injectors was running a Fuel Pressure Regulator? So how much does this cost? And given the standard injectors flow 370cc, what will a 'hiflow' net? This may be a good solution for my fussy 'specific design' NEO injectors..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got my rb25 series one 370cc/min hiflow to 500cc/min here in melbourne by avo . it was a while ago now but i think it cost around the $450 mark. my tuner said that it was hard to get them to idle without running to rich and that they were more like 650cc/min. having said that though im running 281rwkws with heaps of duty cycle left. car idles fine and ive had no problems. ive had them in my car for the past 2 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got my rb25 series one 370cc/min hiflow to 500cc/min here in melbourne by avo . it was a while ago now but i think it cost around the $450 mark. my tuner said that it was hard to get them to idle without running to rich and that they were more like 650cc/min. having said that though im running 281rwkws with heaps of duty cycle left. car idles fine and ive had no problems. ive had them in my car for the past 2 years.

Awesome. Very cost effective. This is the way that Id like to go, eventually, when I can afford a hiflow turbo!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea they are straight fit, some shops from the US, I heard of them from another guy in the forum who used them in his car, think theres somebody from the company in the forum. Maybe try PMing him I think his name was deatschwerks or deatschwerk forgot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

www.deatschwerks.com

I was looking at this guys injectors a while a go. They look like an excellent low cost alternative to the jap brands and are a direct replacement, no stuffing around with collars etc.

He supplies a flow report with every set of injectors and they work out around $600 delivered for whatever size you want. I think he also offers some type of rebate if you give him your stock injectors.

$3 - 400 cheaper for the same result sounds pretty good to me.....

Edited by Lazy-Bastard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

damm right. if this is a low cost alternative maybe its worth a go. there is a down fall tho, you arnt paying for the brand name= many years in the business eg nismo..... sard etc etc. but who knows not always are the brand names better. has anyone had problems with these different injectors. so far i have heard only good things.............. thats a bonus i suppose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am going to chime in here and say that is very bad advice for a built motor, making decent power of 400kW+ Especially if the rings have been gapped on the looser side. The more power you make the heavier you need your oil to be to be able to maintain that suspension between the moving parts, if not you'll have journals and bearings making love and grenade a motor. Remember that all moving parts inside the motor aren't ball bearing and are journal bearings and require oil to separate the surfaces from contacting.
    • Yeah I noticed this just now. No doubt she will be running smoother next start😂🤣😂
    • ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases are 33100-23U00 which is shared with all of the R32/R33 GT-Rs and GTS-4s. And the C34 Stagea. Do not bother with automatics, that is a huge effort to swap and the car will be worse for it. And an automatic transfer case does not have the right housing for the shifter which comes out the back of the transmission and goes through the transfer case. I already posted my response on reddit but if you didn't see it there here it is: You have almost certainly damaged the transfer case, the only question is how badly. Nobody can tell you how bad without more information. If you have a giant hole in the transfer case pissing out all the transfer case fluid then you need a new one. If it's not that bad then the only question is whether you burned up the clutches. Drain the transfer case oil and inspect for metal on the drain plug magnet. Small black filings are normal. Big chunks of metal or a ton of black fuzzies not so much. Fluid should be nice and red. Any other color isn't great. If the color is reasonably red and there's not a bunch of clutch material discoloring it or anything like that you probably got away with insubstantial excess wear not worth trying to fix. If you have to rebuild or replace the transfer case keep in mind you have to pull the transmission to get it off.
    • As promised………… the first start. Rough and a few bugs to work out. Still she lives att.1cnTUvrWxiOZUFbg0S43m1VFUdDhxGBq3UU53bvtkww.mp4
    • Can I suggest a 15W50 oil is too heavy. Its a brand new engine - you should be able to run something like a 10W30. Shove some steel wool into your catch can  - more technically "oil/air separator" - so that the oil vapour has something to condense on.
×
×
  • Create New...