Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmmmmm,ive just read this thread from start to finish

some....well how can i say......interesting claims have been made

but so be it .

i personaly am not a fan of unforged handgrenade[highly researched] motors but each to there own.

and well done on your um research

i dont know why people doubt the engine

it has run the times and mph

lets see what its capable after i have done the cage and return to the drags apart from that i aint posting no more in this thread waste of time

too many people who dont respect things and other peoples reasearch

But the thing is can it do it for 12 months or more?

Thats what determines reliable in my book. Putting solid KM's on a motor

I ran around 330-350rwkw through a built RB25 with laods of dyno runs and 1/4 passes and many km's on the street, and i learnt a lot doing so.

Hence seeing the stock motor inspected for stress after more than a few months etc will be interesting.

12-18months will be the test in my book

well a lot of people dont think you've done any research, and this is why they doubt it and or ignore you. also a lot of people value their engines and don't have unlimited money so they would prefer peice of mind over saving for the cost of a set of forged pistons and proper internals vs running the stockers on the the borderline of catastrophic failure

But the thing is can it do it for 12 months or more?

Thats what determines reliable in my book.

I ran around 330-350rwkw through a built RB25 with laods of dyno runs and 1/4 passes, and i learnt a lot doing so.

Hence seeing the stock motor inspected for stress after more than a few months etc will be interesting.

12-18months will be the test in my book

if you want me to test this then i will

i wont boost it anymore or anymore nos to see how long it last

im more then happy to do so as its making more then enough power as it is and im still having fun

just have to put the other motor on a crate.

its lasted a total of 6 month 1 week so far

its only been listed on the forums for 4 months or so

i also dont drive the car like a grandma it cops more punishment then anything and any car i know.

well a lot of people dont think you've done any research, and this is why they doubt it and or ignore you. also a lot of people value their engines and don't have unlimited money so they would prefer peice of mind over saving for the cost of a set of forged pistons and proper internals vs running the stockers on the the borderline of catastrophic failure

very true i fell the same but i thought ill give this a try and its working pretty damn fine ive got my race motor at the shop ready if anything does happen as i have stated many times in this post,but as many people thought it wouldnt and would blow up straight away it hasnt.

im very impressed in the motor and how much it has handled.I wouldnt mind seeing a low 10 as the car is able to do it.ill post more as i go on the times i am running and when it blows picts of the internals.

There are two 240sx's in the US that are making 500+ whp on stock RB25 motors. One is a neo motor and the other is a series II motor.

The Neo motor dynoed 587 whp without opening the motor up. It has a custom intake and turbo manifold. He ran an 11.1 his first time out.

The other 240 has ran consistent 10's on stock motor.

Then he put a headgaster/studs and cams on and is now in the 9's. Last I heard his tranny broke and he is now running a powerglide tranny.

The US dyno readings compared to our dynos are somewhat "higher"... not the best of example, but i guess one none the less

they are a lot higher than our ausie dyno readings.. lol damn yanks trying to show off

There are two 240sx's in the US that are making 500+ whp on stock RB25 motors. One is a neo motor and the other is a series II motor.

The Neo motor dynoed 587 whp without opening the motor up. It has a custom intake and turbo manifold. He ran an 11.1 his first time out.

The other 240 has ran consistent 10's on stock motor.

Then he put a headgaster/studs and cams on and is now in the 9's. Last I heard his tranny broke and he is now running a powerglide tranny.

Very interesting

but there not skylines.i could put this motor in a gemini and run mid 9`z now couldnt I

power to weight ratio is a big difference

but interesting to see some1 makeing power out of this motors

I dont know wy ppl are riding him. The fact is he has enough bolt ons for this thing, its no surprise it makes the numbers.

On a std engine is surprising, but think about the duration in which the engine is under load and i suspect many engines can handle hits for short durations...when they will catch up with this motor? Well it can only be a matter of time until its bottom end lets go, maybe not a piston or rod...but surely a bearing as the thing is still running std oiling sytstem. Will it be another 6 months, 6 days? Isnt that what he is tryign to find out?

Anyway, best of luck with it, i just wish some bloke would do this with a RB20. Its funny years ago anymore then 230rwkws and ppl thought RB25s needed pistons. Then it was 250. Now in NSW there are a few cars gettign around with 300-330rwkws so perhaps with better turbo setups and tuning these numbers are more realistic.

LOL...that said do a flat knacker 8 laps at EC and i bet the engine will give up:)

You guys are all dyno freaks, who gives a shit about dyno figures. The ET and MPH tell the story.

The US dyno readings compared to our dynos are somewhat "higher"... not the best of example, but i guess one none the less
LOL...that said do a flat knacker 8 laps at EC and i bet the engine will give up:)

For me that is the key aspect of the whole debate. Outright power is one thing. Durability at whatever power the car develops is quite another. Protracted high speeds or loading WILL expose weaknesses.

Who wants bent rods / broken pistons / valve train issues / oil starvation / heat management problems because the owner/builder skimps on the build? Best long-standing advice is to run what you can afford to break.

For me that is the key aspect of the whole debate. Outright power is one thing. Durability at whatever power the car develops is quite another. Protracted high speeds or loading WILL expose weaknesses.

Who wants bent rods / broken pistons / valve train issues / oil starvation / heat management problems because the owner/builder skimps on the build? Best long-standing advice is to run what you can afford to break.

It's not like he's suggested that he built it for circuit work. It's obviously a drag car. Don't criticise it for not being a capable circuit/drift/burnout car when nothing of the sort has been claimed.

Wake up to yourselves.

Adrian

very interesting thread....

i believe jason and his high power claims and 10second 1/4 times...

.... however i do feel your a bit agressive mate. if some one is a smartarse or anything like that, i believe you should let it slide and keep your focus on ppl who are supporting you. as hard as it is to practice what i preach.

my 2c. cheers. james.

ps. well done on your work ;)

The US dyno readings compared to our dynos are somewhat "higher"... not the best of example, but i guess one none the less

Maybe your dyno readings are all low AND Incorrect. Ever thought about that?

It's not like he's suggested that he built it for circuit work. It's obviously a drag car. Don't criticise it for not being a capable circuit/drift/burnout car when nothing of the sort has been claimed.

Wake up to yourselves.

Amen.

It's not like he's suggested that he built it for circuit work. It's obviously a drag car. Don't criticise it for not being a capable circuit/drift/burnout car when nothing of the sort has been claimed.

Wake up to yourselves.

Adrian

The point of the comment was not to be critical of a drag machine - moreso to voice an opinion on the financial risk that comes with a high-stress / short-duration drivetrain used in anything other than that environment.

Best of luck to him and enjoy, I reckon. That's what modifying cars should be about.

FWIW, the best advice is still to run what you can afford to break.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1
Who wants bent rods / broken pistons / valve train issues / oil starvation / heat management problems because the owner/builder skimps on the build? Best long-standing advice is to run what you can afford to break.

Yeh but nah :D

He hasnt built anything, its a std engine. So who cares if it lets go. Even if its a catastrophic failure and rods go through the block, and the head gets damaged etc, it wont add a great deal to the cost of a fully built engine...say 6.5k instead of 6k?!?!?!

...i agree with the statement run what you can afford to break...but its a std engine..so doesnt owe him anything, it came with the car.

Its just liek the 400rwkws street GTRs, how often will any of these cars actually see full boost on the street. I suspect they are less stressed then std motors that have more mid torque and ramp onto boost more regularly on the street. Take it to a track and fang it hard for 10mins and it will be a different story...but you tweak your car to best suit what you do with it...

Just a quick question, you say you have a gt3540 - just wondering what specs as mine has the 0.82 rear and is making 480rwhp with slight compressor surge (meaning the turbo has run out of flow) and 24psi, mine also sees full boost early 4000rpms - just after a comparison with when yours sees full boost as im assuming you have a 1.06 exhaust

And congrats on the power and qtr time

Edited by turbo87
Just a quick question, you say you have a gt3540 - just wondering what specs as mine has the 0.82 rear and is making 480rwhp with slight compressor surge (meaning the turbo has run out of flow) and 24psi, mine also sees full boost early 4000rpms - just after a comparison with when yours sees full boost as im assuming you have a 1.06 exhaust

And congrats on the power and qtr time

thanks mate

im running a 1.06 rear housing

and 18 psi of boost

the car is a street car and is going to be continued driving on the road once the cage is in it

i havent driven it in 2 weeks due to ecu upgrade and cage.

like i said ive got my other motor waiting there and will put that in when this blows up but it wont

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...