Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTST :)

I was about to say exactly the same thing.

MR331307

Good work for improving the times....but you still couldnt resist hey? Maybe leave the clown remarks at the door and people may show a little respect.

sorry champ SHORT fuse

lol

i am testing out this motor and trying to explain the progress to everyone and im left with blokes on here trying to put it down

fair enough its lasted maybe 3 months so fair but still not like ive treated it like a pensioners car.There are some really nice people on this forum and alot of keyboard warriors.

Ill update it as i get more progress out of the car.

OK

Wild 1 Motorsport is happy to say that the standard Rb25 motor has run

10.8 @ 128 MPH

Doing a 1.48 60" foot time and lifting the wheels in the air

Time for a cage and New safety Equipment

You can view some of the video Clips on www.wild1motorsport.com

Last run was using a 30 shot of gas Detuning to the engine to compensate.

We are trying to run mid to low 10 second passes out of the vehicle when it returns and then once this is achieved and if the engine is still running more nitrous and Boost to achieve a high 9 second pass.

Currently we have done a compression test and the engine is fine.Oil pressure is fine.

OK

Wild 1 Motorsport is happy to say that the standard Rb25 motor has run

10.8 @ 128 MPH

Doing a 1.48 60" foot time and lifting the wheels in the air

Time for a cage and New safety Equipment

You can view some of the video Clips on www.wild1motorsport.com

Last run was using a 30 shot of gas Detuning to the engine to compensate.

We are trying to run mid to low 10 second passes out of the vehicle when it returns and then once this is achieved and if the engine is still running more nitrous and Boost to achieve a high 9 second pass.

Currently we have done a compression test and the engine is fine.Oil pressure is fine.

Wheres the 10 sec vid? Those are 12 sec passes

i tried

MT 275/28/15 street tyres and the best i could get was 11.3 with a 1.7 60"

now im runnin

10/26/15 MT full slicks and i got a 1.48 60 " .Theres no way a manuel IRS car will hook up any good without full slicks under the rear.I have HKS drag shocks as well under the car.

The reason for the smaller diameter slicks is so i could cross the Line at a Higher RPM as with the street tyres i was only crossing the line at 6600RPM or so and now im crossing the line at 7200RPM.But i still need to be crossing the line at 7700 RPM.I might play around with the tune and try to get the power on a lil quicker

the car still boged down a bit of the mark so we are going to launch a bit harder next time and hold the car flat till the end and try to run mid 10`s.Once i have run more then 10 runs at 10.5 or quicker,Then its time for more NOS and More boost.

Edited by MR331307
Theres no way a manuel IRS car will hook up any good without full slicks under the rear.

Mark Jacobsen - 1.358 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3470lb car

Shane Crichton - 1.51 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3500lb car

Me - 1.66 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3240lb car

They're all IRS Jason and Mark and my cars are manual. I think you just need to persevere with them.

Awesome work on the 10 though, mate.

Adrian

Mark Jacobsen - 1.358 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3470lb car

Shane Crichton - 1.51 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3500lb car

Me - 1.66 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3240lb car

They're all IRS Jason and Mark and my cars are manual. I think you just need to persevere with them.

Awesome work on the 10 though, mate.

Maybe i will need smaller diameter street slicks but anyway i wasnt gonna waste money on Street tyres.I wanted slicks.

How much power are the top 2 making

The top car Very good ill be more then proud of that

But i aint wanting to run 1.5,1.6 60`s(not putting you down or being a smartass)

i want 1.3,1.4 constant 60's without have the need to burn the clutch or do to many stupid things to launch.

With Slicks hold 7500,Drop Clutch & hold on

Later on once i am running consistant then i will try to run similar numbers with street tyres.

AND ADRIAN NO NEED TO BE JEALOUS AND GO ON ABOUT RUBBISH. Once the cage goes in ill be back for more

Edited by MR331307

Good work on the ET's and TS's so far, it's a matter of practise and improvement. It was never going to happen first time out.

almost 350 dyno runs

The problem is you have had 350 FREE dyno runs to get it right. How much would you charge a customer for 350 dyno runs? Even at $50 a run (which is cheap) that's $17,500. I think I would much rather spend my time and money on an RB30 with forged internals and still come out $10K in front.

:P cheers :(

PS, word of advice, you are promoting a retail business, it pays to treat you potential customers with repect.

Edited by Sydneykid

For starters

350 dyno runs were on for reasearch purposes.

if i had to dyno a vehicle it will only take around 10 dyno passes and around $400 costing.I have done reaseach in the motor to get it to last and so far i think shes doing fine.

I am trying to retain the standard skyline Engine Drivetrain as a RB30 Might be a similar block but still didnt come out of my vehicle.As well i think that the RB25 and RB26 Motors are a much better bottom end compared to a RB30.

Any ways

research is still going on and will update as i go

AND ADRIAN NO NEED TO BE JEALOUS AND GO ON ABOUT RUBBISH

Mate, I was trying to help you out and maybe offer a bit of advice. Obviously that was un-wanted and you have different goals. That's cool.

That's the end of my discussion on the subject. Good luck with your racing, i hope you run as fast as you want and do it safely.

I'm sorry I bothered.

Adrian

LINEMEUP i wonder what the rest of your business associates think about your attitude towards the public, because u dont show a very positive additude, and all u seem to do is bag people out and say they are not as good as you.

grow up ffs, u sound about 17 years old the way u act to other peoples comments.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...