Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at shortening my pipe work to stock plenum and trying to eliminate some twists and turns without buying a greddy $1200 plenum . my aim is to lesson turbo lag and increase throttle response. i intend on doing this by 90 degree right turn coming out of stock plenum and straight down plenum side of my rb25 to intercooler. like people do when they run a high mount turbo and do away with the stock cross over pipe. i want to hear from anybody that has any knowledge on the subject??? at the moment im running low mount gt30 with stock cooler pipes straight over the top but if you follow the pipe coming out from the stock plenum it probably has about 4 bends in it before it reaches the plenum side of the intercooler, sureley i can shorten this pipe by doing what i have said above and reduce the length of pipe work and at least two bends???

Edited by bigcarl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106809-shortening-pipeing-to-plenum/
Share on other sites

yep, you can just do a direct bend out of the plenum and then go straight over and then down the side.

would reduce the amount of piping... as for throttle response in terms of a noticable gain... not sure

I think that last one is ROY's

thanks for the replys, thanks sk for pics thats exactly what i want to do! would it be best to use 2.5 inch pipeing as to keep the velocity of air up? howe big is the opening to throttle body 2.5 inch or 3inch? would 3inch to plenum be too laggy? cheers carl.

thanks for the replys, thanks sk for pics thats exactly what i want to do! would it be best to use 2.5 inch pipeing as to keep the velocity of air up? howe big is the opening to throttle body 2.5 inch or 3inch? would 3inch to plenum be too laggy? cheers carl.

We use 63mm pipework from the turbo to the intercoler and 75 mm pipework from the intercooler to the plenum.

do you find you get more response from going this way?

Yes, there is around 5 litres of air (between the turbo and the throttle body) to be saved using this method.

:P cheers :P

do you find you get more response from going this way?

LOL...nope , i didnt. But it was worth a try...

Myself i think this falls into the category of its technically the better way of doing it so best do it. But if its is done like the usual kits you wont notice any real difference. The best thing about this setup id the poor guy trying ti tune the ar isnt havign to stuff around with coole rpiping when gettign to your adjustable cam gears..

great thanx again for pics and info. i m about to get me low mount hks one piece cast iron manifold fitted and i will probably get this done at the same time. sk was there any performance gains to peak or midrange with these changes when running high boost??? how does it change shape of power curve? mine seems to have a small dip at the top before gong up again .

great thanx again for pics and info. i m about to get me low mount hks one piece cast iron manifold fitted and i will probably get this done at the same time. sk was there any performance gains to peak or midrange with these changes when running high boost??? how does it change shape of power curve? mine seems to have a small dip at the top before gong up again .

It doesn't change the power on the dyno 1 kw, it just lessens the time between throttle depression and engine response. It is most noticeable in the 3,000 rpm to 4,500 rpm range, which is where you do the most driving on the road. I can't say as there is any noticeable difference over 5,000 rpm. Which would be logical as the air speed through the intercooler pipework is much higher and the time taken to flow the 5 litres is less as the rpm rises.

:) cheers :)

i run my piping under the cooler back to the original piping, no complaints..

ill post pics tonight it u want...

was very cheap, just bought 2.5inch piping already bent, cut to lenght and put it together..

most expensive thing was the thermo flex

Hate to rain on the parade here, but any friction loss you get rid of by using less piping you'll be making up 2 fold in piping bends.

BUT - as it saves volume, perhaps you might see a very small difference, but 5L saved on a 2.5L motor doing 4,000rpm plus isn't going to do much either.

BUT (#2) - the friction loss of air is next to bugger all so it's all a bit futile..

Though the finished article looks farkin cool though with that sweeping bend.. :P

Also in the case of loosing the 5L of air by using this bent pipe.... you don't loose very much presure over the entire cooling phase do you... the intercooler that i am getting states that you will only loose about .2PSI over the course of the intercool, from turbo to manifold.

so if you are running 15PSI then when it gets back tot he mainifold you will be seeing 14.8PSI

i just don't understand how loosing this volume would really make that much of a differance?

this is not ment to be rude in any sort of way i am just confused y this would make a differance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...