Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at shortening my pipe work to stock plenum and trying to eliminate some twists and turns without buying a greddy $1200 plenum . my aim is to lesson turbo lag and increase throttle response. i intend on doing this by 90 degree right turn coming out of stock plenum and straight down plenum side of my rb25 to intercooler. like people do when they run a high mount turbo and do away with the stock cross over pipe. i want to hear from anybody that has any knowledge on the subject??? at the moment im running low mount gt30 with stock cooler pipes straight over the top but if you follow the pipe coming out from the stock plenum it probably has about 4 bends in it before it reaches the plenum side of the intercooler, sureley i can shorten this pipe by doing what i have said above and reduce the length of pipe work and at least two bends???

Edited by bigcarl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106809-shortening-pipeing-to-plenum/
Share on other sites

yep, you can just do a direct bend out of the plenum and then go straight over and then down the side.

would reduce the amount of piping... as for throttle response in terms of a noticable gain... not sure

I think that last one is ROY's

thanks for the replys, thanks sk for pics thats exactly what i want to do! would it be best to use 2.5 inch pipeing as to keep the velocity of air up? howe big is the opening to throttle body 2.5 inch or 3inch? would 3inch to plenum be too laggy? cheers carl.

thanks for the replys, thanks sk for pics thats exactly what i want to do! would it be best to use 2.5 inch pipeing as to keep the velocity of air up? howe big is the opening to throttle body 2.5 inch or 3inch? would 3inch to plenum be too laggy? cheers carl.

We use 63mm pipework from the turbo to the intercoler and 75 mm pipework from the intercooler to the plenum.

do you find you get more response from going this way?

Yes, there is around 5 litres of air (between the turbo and the throttle body) to be saved using this method.

:P cheers :P

do you find you get more response from going this way?

LOL...nope , i didnt. But it was worth a try...

Myself i think this falls into the category of its technically the better way of doing it so best do it. But if its is done like the usual kits you wont notice any real difference. The best thing about this setup id the poor guy trying ti tune the ar isnt havign to stuff around with coole rpiping when gettign to your adjustable cam gears..

great thanx again for pics and info. i m about to get me low mount hks one piece cast iron manifold fitted and i will probably get this done at the same time. sk was there any performance gains to peak or midrange with these changes when running high boost??? how does it change shape of power curve? mine seems to have a small dip at the top before gong up again .

great thanx again for pics and info. i m about to get me low mount hks one piece cast iron manifold fitted and i will probably get this done at the same time. sk was there any performance gains to peak or midrange with these changes when running high boost??? how does it change shape of power curve? mine seems to have a small dip at the top before gong up again .

It doesn't change the power on the dyno 1 kw, it just lessens the time between throttle depression and engine response. It is most noticeable in the 3,000 rpm to 4,500 rpm range, which is where you do the most driving on the road. I can't say as there is any noticeable difference over 5,000 rpm. Which would be logical as the air speed through the intercooler pipework is much higher and the time taken to flow the 5 litres is less as the rpm rises.

:) cheers :)

i run my piping under the cooler back to the original piping, no complaints..

ill post pics tonight it u want...

was very cheap, just bought 2.5inch piping already bent, cut to lenght and put it together..

most expensive thing was the thermo flex

Hate to rain on the parade here, but any friction loss you get rid of by using less piping you'll be making up 2 fold in piping bends.

BUT - as it saves volume, perhaps you might see a very small difference, but 5L saved on a 2.5L motor doing 4,000rpm plus isn't going to do much either.

BUT (#2) - the friction loss of air is next to bugger all so it's all a bit futile..

Though the finished article looks farkin cool though with that sweeping bend.. :P

Also in the case of loosing the 5L of air by using this bent pipe.... you don't loose very much presure over the entire cooling phase do you... the intercooler that i am getting states that you will only loose about .2PSI over the course of the intercool, from turbo to manifold.

so if you are running 15PSI then when it gets back tot he mainifold you will be seeing 14.8PSI

i just don't understand how loosing this volume would really make that much of a differance?

this is not ment to be rude in any sort of way i am just confused y this would make a differance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...