Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Recently during the SAU vic DECA day last year and yesterday while taking the car for a 'shakedown' run, I have had the situation where I have been stationary, engaged the clutch (well the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor) and gone to put it in 1st and it has crunched (same sound as if the clutch wasn't engaged). Each time it has engaged 1st gear and everything seems fine after that. I should note that this only happens rarely...probably 1 in every 50-70 times I have gone for 1st gear if that...and I don't have this problem in any other gear. Also the clutch is not slipping and can still hold up on a heard launch.

I have had my car for about 5 years (95' Gtst), 3 of which has been in a modified state and over the past couple of years have taken it to track days. As such I am aware that some syncros are wearing heavily, particularly 2-3rd. I should also note that I change the gearbox oil fairly reg. with top quality fluids.

My question is whether this is a sign that the syncros in the 'box are severly worn or that my clutch is on the way out.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107095-gearbox-syncros-or-clutch/
Share on other sites

Hey All,

Recently during the SAU vic DECA day last year and yesterday while taking the car for a 'shakedown' run, I have had the situation where I have been stationary, engaged the clutch (well the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor) and gone to put it in 1st and it has crunched (same sound as if the clutch wasn't engaged). Each time it has engaged 1st gear and everything seems fine after that. I should note that this only happens rarely...probably 1 in every 50-70 times I have gone for 1st gear if that...and I don't have this problem in any other gear. Also the clutch is not slipping and can still hold up on a heard launch.

I have had my car for about 5 years (95' Gtst), 3 of which has been in a modified state and over the past couple of years have taken it to track days. As such I am aware that some syncros are wearing heavily, particularly 2-3rd. I should also note that I change the gearbox oil fairly reg. with top quality fluids.

My question is whether this is a sign that the syncros in the 'box are severly worn or that my clutch is on the way out.....

Try engaging reverse while you are stationary if that crunches it means the clutch is not totaly dissengaging , then try to adust the pedal under the dash .

Make sure when you do it that you push the clutch in and wait a few seconds for the input shaft to stop turning .

I have a gearchange problem but mine I think is the selectors in the gearbox because I don't get a crunch, its just very hard to push into gear and sometimes won't go in at all. I have to jerk it back forth into 3rd and 4th for a bit to make the shifter 'free up' a bit before engaging 1st or reverse....is this a similar problem to ant's?

Does syncros = selectors?

Thanks wrxhoon...reverse seems to engage with no dramas and no crunch. Trouble is I can't do it when the gearbox crunches as it has only happened (recently) at a set of lights and like I say it engages the gear it just crunches while doing it.

The input shaft thing might explain it as it is usually a fairly quick hit the pedal and engage gear movement....maybe I'm too impatient :) but it never used to do this in the past.

Topaz.....I think you have a slightly diff problem and def. sounds like your syncros are on their way out. Simply put syncros are gears that accelerate or decelerate parts of the gearbox to match the speed of the turning bits with the next gear. So if you are struggling to get it from one gear to the next that is probably your problem. You can tell when syncros are worn between gears when you change gears the movement feels very cluncky rather than being a smooth action.

Thanks wrxhoon...reverse seems to engage with no dramas and no crunch. Trouble is I can't do it when the gearbox crunches as it has only happened (recently) at a set of lights and like I say it engages the gear it just crunches while doing it.

The input shaft thing might explain it as it is usually a fairly quick hit the pedal and engage gear movement....maybe I'm too impatient :) but it never used to do this in the past.

Topaz.....I think you have a slightly diff problem and def. sounds like your syncros are on their way out. Simply put syncros are gears that accelerate or decelerate parts of the gearbox to match the speed of the turning bits with the next gear. So if you are struggling to get it from one gear to the next that is probably your problem. You can tell when syncros are worn between gears when you change gears the movement feels very cluncky rather than being a smooth action.

If you no problem selecting reverse and it doesnt crunch then your clutch is doing its job , totaly disengaging .

The fact that you crunch when you are trying to get it in to first gear when you are quick is a synchro problem . Yo will find that it will be crunching even when you are moving unless you match the revs , you probably do by toe and heel . When the synchros are worn out and you dont match revs you will get a cruching sound all the time on especialy on high rpm changes and when the box is hot .

On normal say 3-4000 rpm upchanges you wont notice any crunching unless the syncro is totaly stuffed .

Synthetic oils dont do the synchros any favours either , mineral oils work better ..

I kind of thought it would by syncros but wasn't too sure. In regard to the box being hot, the only 2 times it has happened has been on days pushing 30+ degrees after a lot of driving. I must say though that even when it was this hot and doing high rpm changes (1-2nd around 7k, 2-3rd around 6k etc etc) it doesn't crunch...sometimes I heel-toe but not always. Like I say it has only happened going into 1st from neutral when stationary.

Also the fluids used has mainly been redline shockproof which came very well recommended and up till recently has done the job very well.

It sounds as though it might be a combination of a worn syncro and not waiting long enough for the input shaft to stop moving....

I kind of thought it would by syncros but wasn't too sure. In regard to the box being hot, the only 2 times it has happened has been on days pushing 30+ degrees after a lot of driving. I must say though that even when it was this hot and doing high rpm changes (1-2nd around 7k, 2-3rd around 6k etc etc) it doesn't crunch...sometimes I heel-toe but not always. Like I say it has only happened going into 1st from neutral when stationary.

Also the fluids used has mainly been redline shockproof which came very well recommended and up till recently has done the job very well.

It sounds as though it might be a combination of a worn syncro and not waiting long enough for the input shaft to stop moving....

If the synchros are working as they are designed to work then it doesnt matter if you wait or not for any forward gear as they all have synchros, only reverse doesn't.

The fact that you are not crunching in other gears i good , it means the synchros are working .

Each to their own on the oils but i like to use mineral oil in synchro boxes, i have found that synthetic oils slow the sychros, but thats just me. Everyone seems to be happy using them , like i said each to their own ....

Topaz.....I think you have a slightly diff problem and def. sounds like your syncros are on their way out. Simply put syncros are gears that accelerate or decelerate parts of the gearbox to match the speed of the turning bits with the next gear. So if you are struggling to get it from one gear to the next that is probably your problem. You can tell when syncros are worn between gears when you change gears the movement feels very cluncky rather than being a smooth action.

crap, it does sound like my synchros then :D. Its fine when I'm moving and the been driving for a while, but only when I am stopped at lights or just starting the car in the morning. But I only get crunches into 1st and changing from first to 2nd sometimes...

ok, how much is a new GTR gearbox? :)

I guess I'll run it till something breaks.....then I'll definiately know what it is :D Considering it is only selecting 1st, if that goes I have the other gears to get me home :)

Topaz....I'd forget about getting a new box and get your one rebuilt by a pro....a lot cheaper and I'd hate to think of the cost of a new 32 box!! A mate got a new 33 r box from nissan...cost him around 5k and the thing had heaps of problems.

I guess I'll run it till something breaks.....then I'll definiately know what it is :D Considering it is only selecting 1st, if that goes I have the other gears to get me home :)

Topaz....I'd forget about getting a new box and get your one rebuilt by a pro....a lot cheaper and I'd hate to think of the cost of a new 32 box!! A mate got a new 33 r box from nissan...cost him around 5k and the thing had heaps of problems.

hmm iff you reif it in quickly it will crunch as the gears are still spinning in the box for a short time :P .

i dought yuove got a colapsed or broken clutch diaphram spring. can have the same efect

Also the fluids used has mainly been redline shockproof which came very well recommended and up till recently has done the job very well.

I think you'll find it's STILL doing the job well. Look elsewhere. Good luck.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...