Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys n gals

the other day after turning my aircon on (18 a/c on) it was cold for about 5 mins then just started to blow hot air ??

then i got home turn the car off for say 15 mins then turned it back on and it blow Cold ??

then the day after same, cold for maybe 2 mins then hot now it only blows hot

i think the compressor is working as when the turn the A/C on the i hear the sound and the revs increase slightly

but the pipe going into the fire wall is not ice cold as it should be

help !! bloody Melbourne it really HOT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107108-air-con-problem-r33-help-help/
Share on other sites

Mine was doin the exact same thing!!

I had a faulty 'air intake sensor'

Id recommend doing a diagnostics check, see what that comes up with...

In my circumstance, it said all sensors fine....However it displayed a reading of -5 degrees on the air intake sensor...

Now obviously the air goin in isnt that cold..

Id put my money on that, as ur symptons are identical to what i had...

Mine was doin the exact same thing!!

I had a faulty 'air intake sensor'

Id recommend doing a diagnostics check, see what that comes up with...

In my circumstance, it said all sensors fine....However it displayed a reading of -5 degrees on the air intake sensor...

Now obviously the air goin in isnt that cold..

Id put my money on that, as ur symptons are identical to what i had...

how did you fix it ?

did you take it some where

costs ??

Cleaning the sensor is pretty easy.

Firstly, find the post on installing a head unit, this will show you how to remove/loosen the dash.

2) Where you have that little grille in the dash, next to your antenna-control button, on the inside of the dash piece, there is one screw holding the sensor to that grille.

3) Disconnect the rubber hose from it. (should be very easy, and it could already have fallen off)

4) Unscrew the sensor assembly, admire the dust-coated wire

5) Blast it with compressed air or contact cleaner.

6) Admire shiny clean sensor

7) Reinstall and test with the dash apart.

heh, sounds like my aircon

used to start cold and then blow hot air, or just blow hot air

there was also a bit of vibration/noise

i think piping the or some part of the aircon system was lose

i got my mechanic to tighten everything up

and now she goes great!

Cleaning the sensor is pretty easy.

Firstly, find the post on installing a head unit, this will show you how to remove/loosen the dash.

2) Where you have that little grille in the dash, next to your antenna-control button, on the inside of the dash piece, there is one screw holding the sensor to that grille.

3) Disconnect the rubber hose from it. (should be very easy, and it could already have fallen off)

4) Unscrew the sensor assembly, admire the dust-coated wire

5) Blast it with compressed air or contact cleaner.

6) Admire shiny clean sensor

7) Reinstall and test with the dash apart.

I did this on sat but hasn't really help thanks for the tip though

oh well might just have to take it to someone

Randy,

I dont believe that the sensor with the grill on the dash, near the antenna controll is the air intake sensor..

Thats the "inside air sensor". (i may be wrong)

Not too sure where it is exactly tho...

I took mine to an autoelectrician...

2 actually...

The 1st one couldnt find the problem, the 2nd had a fair bit experience with imports and their air systems.

Got recommended to the place by an importer...

Paid $240 tho.....

But then again....ur problem may be different....(just saying it has the same symptons)

Have u run a diagnostics ???? What that say?

Randy,

I dont believe that the sensor with the grill on the dash, near the antenna controll is the air intake sensor..

Thats the "inside air sensor". (i may be wrong)

Not too sure where it is exactly tho...

I took mine to an autoelectrician...

2 actually...

The 1st one couldnt find the problem, the 2nd had a fair bit experience with imports and their air systems.

Got recommended to the place by an importer...

Paid $240 tho.....

But then again....ur problem may be different....(just saying it has the same symptons)

Have u run a diagnostics ???? What that say?

yeah i have run the diag, seems to be all ok apart from the sunlight sensor but dosn't that read funny most of the time ???

when they fixed the prob did they tell you what it was ???

hey guys n gals

the other day after turning my aircon on (18 a/c on) it was cold for about 5 mins then just started to blow hot air ??

then i got home turn the car off for say 15 mins then turned it back on and it blow Cold ??

then the day after same, cold for maybe 2 mins then hot now it only blows hot

i think the compressor is working as when the turn the A/C on the i hear the sound and the revs increase slightly

but the pipe going into the fire wall is not ice cold as it should be

help !! bloody Melbourne it really HOT

Ive got the same problem in my 33 thought maybe it just needed a regas if you figure it out post it it would really help

yeah i have run the diag, seems to be all ok apart from the sunlight sensor but dosn't that read funny most of the time ???

when they fixed the prob did they tell you what it was ???

Depends if ur car is in the shade or sun??

Check the individual temperatures of the sensors...

Whilst in "Diagnostics Mode" push "HOT" untill "5" appears on the display...

Then Push "AMB" once to display the 'outside air temp'

twice to display the inside air temp

three times to display the suction temperature

4 times to disaplay the refigeration temperature

See if the temperatures given for each sensor seem logical ??

Ie. Mine said the outside air temp was -5 degrees.. (which was obviously incorrect)

And had a faulty "air intake sensor".......Beacuse the air-con system thought the air was so so so cold outside, it would stop cooling after some time....(Just like urs).

You can pull apart the dash etc, find the sensor... put it on a multi meter etc, see if its workin if u like, if thats the problem replace it...

Or if ur lazy like me take it in to an autoelectrician...(Tho, id see if there are any caryards in your state that deal with imports, and see if they reccommend any autoelectricians. (Normally these places are more experienced in imports)

Depends if ur car is in the shade or sun??

Check the individual temperatures of the sensors...

Whilst in "Diagnostics Mode" push "HOT" untill "5" appears on the display...

Then Push "AMB" once to display the 'outside air temp'

twice to display the inside air temp

three times to display the suction temperature

4 times to disaplay the refigeration temperature

how do you get to diagnostics mode?

Randy,

I dont believe that the sensor with the grill on the dash, near the antenna controll is the air intake sensor..

Thats the "inside air sensor". (i may be wrong)

Not too sure where it is exactly tho...

I took mine to an autoelectrician...

2 actually...

The 1st one couldnt find the problem, the 2nd had a fair bit experience with imports and their air systems.

Got recommended to the place by an importer...

Paid $240 tho.....

But then again....ur problem may be different....(just saying it has the same symptons)

Have u run a diagnostics ???? What that say?

True, but it's a sensor of the inside air, so I think it's relevant. If the A/C thinks it has reached the desired temperature, it will stop cooling beyond that temperature. If it thinks the cabin is -5 degrees, then sure, it'll blast hot air to bring the temp UP to 18 degrees if thats what he's set it to.

To everyone else: We're talking Series2 R33, and everyone else is talking R32. I'm not even sure the diagnostics on the A/C unit are the same button-combo on the R33?

Edited by RANDY

Hi

For those who are having trouble with their A/C listen up as this is the second thing i have fixed my self in the last six months :/ bloody annoying as its been damm hot !!

anyway as is stated above bloody A/C went crazy then just stoped working

last night however my mate and i decided to give it another crack to see if we could find the problem

firstly thought may have been sensor but diagnostic confirmed that they worked fine and didn't think it would have been the compressor it self as at one stage it was working fine then i wouldn't then it was again and so on and so forth which turned me away from a fuse as it would have just gone and thing wouldn't have worked at random times

Sooooooooooo thought i just look at every thing i could possible get to with out out taking my car apart which brought to the relays (blue and white things) in that box thing where that battery terminals are ( what ever you call them) took the A/C one out looked fine but thought i'd just swap it with the fan one and bobs your uncle the A/C fired up straight away

sooooo my advised to any one who is having trouble to try this as it have cost me shat loads more to send it to some autoelec

by the way does anyone know how much a new relay is ???

  • 11 years later...

My clutch slips/plays up when I turn my aircon on, the revs drop a little but my actual clutch doesn't engage or disengage properly and it's really pissing me off! I hardly ever use aircon but with summer here and the Perth heat, I might need it for them extra hot days! Anyone know what's causing this or how to fix it? I know it's not my clutch, I just installed an Exedy HD clutch about 2 weeks ago, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...