Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, hope you're all well :)

just have some questions re: the first time you rego a car at VicRoads, I understand you have to get a roadworthy certificate first and then take the car down but what's the inspection like when you're down there?

I have a few "cosmetic" issues that i'm not sure if i need to fix or not. Mainly...

- Holes left by rear spoiler on boot AND rear left/right quarter panels. About 22 holes in total. Currently have black gaffa tape on some of the holes :D

- Potentially, a half stripped back to metal, bonnet.

- Aftermarket front bar

Everything is will be completely 100% stock standard, cat, headlights to Halogen, rims, all that crap that has be done at compliance time but i'm not sure whether i have to get the spoiler holes fixed or if i cut the bonnet, whether i can rock up to VicRoads with is half stripped back to the metal? Am i allowed an aftermarket front bar at the first time the car is rego'd?

any help is very much appreciated :P

cheers,

chinny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107155-first-rego-at-vicroads-inspection/
Share on other sites

hey all, hope you're all well :)

just have some questions re: the first time you rego a car at VicRoads, I understand you have to get a roadworthy certificate first and then take the car down but what's the inspection like when you're down there?

I have a few "cosmetic" issues that i'm not sure if i need to fix or not. Mainly...

- Holes left by rear spoiler on boot AND rear left/right quarter panels. About 22 holes in total. Currently have black gaffa tape on some of the holes :D

- Potentially, a half stripped back to metal, bonnet.

- Aftermarket front bar

Everything is will be completely 100% stock standard, cat, headlights to Halogen, rims, all that crap that has be done at compliance time but i'm not sure whether i have to get the spoiler holes fixed or if i cut the bonnet, whether i can rock up to VicRoads with is half stripped back to the metal? Am i allowed an aftermarket front bar at the first time the car is rego'd?

any help is very much appreciated :P

cheers,

chinny

If your car passes the RWC then it will not be a problem at the inspection.

When my car was inspected all they checked was the engine number and VIN numbers, took them all of 2 mins.

I doubt they would know if you had an aftermarket frontbar. By having a RWC it tells Vic Roads that your car is road worthy, and they wont think otherwise.

Cheers,

Mark.

This may have no relation to your issues but when i got my first RWC the rear windscreen wiper was removed and covered with tape.. This failed the RWC and i had to have either a replacement glass fitted or which i did plug them up with some for of rubber... I got Foot stops from Clark rubber and silicone them into place..

As Mark stated I was the same the vic roads guy checked the vin and engine number and was on his way to get my plates took about 2 mins as well…

Not sure if this is going to be relevant but just a heads up on it and hope it’s some help..

Matt

so you had issues with the hole left after the wiper was removed? Man i've got like 7 holes on each rear panel and plus the boot holes :D

so if you manage to get a RWC all VicRoads does it check all the numbers are in order?

what if i'm getting a mate at a workshop to do the RWC and he "may" let some things slide, will VicRoads pick up on this? or to them, is a RWC a RWC. What i'm most concerned about is if i haven't got around to respraying the bonnet if i cut it, and it looks mostly black but with bare metal at the end. Structurally it will be fine, but i don't know if they just think it's dodge by the look of it.

thanks for the help guys :)

oh, are they that cluey to check if you've still got Xenon's and stuff like that?

If you have the RWC, they don't care.

All they check is the VIN number and Engine number and Compliance plate.

Most likely it will be some chick that needs help finding the engine number lol.

Don't stress, they don't know much about the actual laws, specifically. So long as you have the RWC, you'll be alright.

have a look at when i joined, and that will give you an idea :P

wanted a R33 initially then saved up a little longer for a R34 (plus parents did want me to get a R33 when i had just turned 19)

Yeah, they just check the engine and vin numbers.

Make sure that the all the engine/VIN numbers on your paperwork is the same, eg roadworthy compliance cert ect ect.. I got sent away by vicroads because I didn't have "RB20" in front of my engine number (even though it isn't part of the engine number) writen on my RWC. So make sure your paperwork is schmick before you go in.

Yeah, they just check the engine and vin numbers.

Make sure that the all the engine/VIN numbers on your paperwork is the same, eg roadworthy compliance cert ect ect.. I got sent away by vicroads because I didn't have "RB20" in front of my engine number (even though it isn't part of the engine number) writen on my RWC. So make sure your paperwork is schmick before you go in.

lol had the exact same thing happen to me, but RB25 was missing...

triple check your RWC before you get there mate, last thing you want is to have ur appointment at vic roads, and walk in expecting to drive your baby home registered, and get sent home without rego because of something stupid like the date being written wrong :)

they didnt look at my car at all. popped the hood, compliance plate, engine number etc and thats it. the rest is all inside while he writes up the papers ;)

If you take ur car to the dande vicroads office there are 2 chicks that check the car and they have NFI!!

When I took my hilux surf import in 1 went and got a toyota book coz she couldnt find the engine number.

10 mins later she tells me that my car isent listed in the toyota book. I look at the book and its for locally delivered toyotas!!!! When I told her this she got very embarrassed and just signed off the paper work!!!

hahaha, if i take it to dandy i'm scared my car might be sporting some new "speed holes" down the side as i drive back home :blink:

altho i suppose that driving there with no number plates probably wouldn't turn many heads anyway :(

cool, thanks guys. I know all you guys just had the numbers checked and that's it. I just thought that if there were some very obvious things like a bare metal bonnet, they might start asking some more questions. But seems like a RWC will do the trick and properly filled out forms :woot:

chinny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
×
×
  • Create New...