New Alternator

[B0oStEr]

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

[RANDY]

I don't see why not? If you can, have a look at the mounting on an Rb25, and sus out the wiring harness for it.

The two motors are pretty similar in terms of layout, and don't forget that some R33's had 2L motors in them too...

I doubt they'd be any stronger in terms of amperage output though... what "died" about yours?

[Cubes]

Interested in this also as running a few thermo's does tax the alt. fairly hard.

I have clocked 204,000km's, I am expecting to replace an alt soon.

I've attached pics of my 1992 R32 ALT.

Once warm my alt drops to 13.3volts under full load high rpm. Always check volts once warm as alt's tend to read higher volts when cold. i.e 13.8-14v.

[BH_SLO32]

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

The R33 alternators have a larger eyelet connector for the alternator output (B+) compared to the R32's. Simply means you will need to remove the R32 eyelet connector and use a larger one. I think the field wiring is the same although not 100% sure. I believe they share the same rating (80 amps).

Cheers

[predator]

Mine is an 1989, and its the Hitachi 23100-59S01... The one I have stuck to my RB25 has the same part number on it, unless its also an RB20 one.

FAST Lists a 23100-70T16 (newer is 17) for RB25 ?

I don't know what yours is Cubes - I think I did hear somewhere they sometimes came with Mitsu' ones.

I got my old one btw b00ster if you are having trouble sourcing one.. $100 + post. Worked fine on my r32.

[Cubes]

Its probably only the first section of the number that matters. 23100.

We all seem to have the same first section of the number, just different last.

[TokyoTaxi]

When I had my HR31 ( RB20DET ), the alternator died and I got a new BOSCH one that fitted straight up and worked a treat. It also had an externally removable voltage regulator ( very handy ).

I'll see if I can find the part number.

[SteveL]

Its probably only the first section of the number that matters. 23100.

We all seem to have the same first section of the number, just different last.

The 23100 is the parts 'group' - in this case the alternator, and its pretty much universal across all Nissan models. The second set of numbers identifies the specific model/year.

Anyway, alternators are pretty much interchangable across the RB2x range. I put an R33 RB25 alternator in my 89 R32 GTR. It has a 90A output. Pretty much bolted straight in with only slight differences in connector locations - no big deal. I also have an RB20DET alternator in my '87 R31 Silh.

[B0oStEr]

I just fitted a brand new alternator tonight and now get a steady 14.2 volts.

I think my old one may not been working properly for a long time

Ever since I've owned the car it's been plagued with flat batteries and hicas light problems as well as the occasional misfiring.

I only spotted the charging problem after fitting a volt meter.

There was never any warning light. I guess the alternator was just making enough charge to keep the light from coming on but not enough to keep the battery from going flat.

I think low battery voltage might even have been the cause of my full throttle lean out.

I know it can make the fuel pump weak.

Can it affect AFM readings or shorten injector pulses enough to lean it out?

[Cubes]

Where did you grab the bran new alt. from?

Nissan i remember were stupidly expensive so it must have been an aftermarket matchup?

[B0oStEr]

Where did you grab the bran new alt. from?

Nissan i remember were stupidly expensive so it must have been an aftermarket matchup?

Nissan quoted $880.

My local auto electrician sourced it from somewhere in Melbourne for $360 plus freight.

It has nissan stamped on it as did the original but no sticker with the nissan part number but apart from that they are identical.

If you want I can try to find out the supplier and their part number but they don't sell to the public.

[Cubes]

That would be awesome... IF he parts with it.

No doubt it will help out all us SAU'ers at one time or another.

The bearings in mine are beginning to rattle a little, so it won't be long.

[predator]

Check a fit on the late 90's Maxima ones..

I was looking and they are rated at around 110-120amps. Could be a goer if they fit. And probably cheap from a wrecker.

[driftmeister]

I managed to fix my problem as posted in Misfire sticky thread. My plugs lean out till idling suffers terribly & hesitation on 4-5k rpm. See my post. Hope this help. BTW is 14.2 volt cupply standard for all RB engines?

[Cubes]

Voltage will vary depending on if the car has recently been started and the electrical load.

Mine will sit on 14.2v for around 5-10mins after start up then drop to 13.8.

[BHDave]

That would be awesome... IF he parts with it.

No doubt it will help out all us SAU'ers at one time or another.

The bearings in mine are beginning to rattle a little, so it won't be long.

I have replaced bearings in alternators before. If you can do without the car for a couple of days it's just a matter of pulling the thing apart and pressing the bearings out. I think it cost less than 30 bucks for a front and rear bearing from cbc (one was an odd ball one so took a day to get). While it's apart replace the brushes which are easily gotten from any decent auto electrician and is usually whats at fault when they aren't charging properly. This was a mazda alternator though.

Total cost of under 60 bucks for what is effectively a new alternator.

[Bl4cK32]

Anyone thought of having their alternator rewound for a higher output?

[benl1981]

Along the lines of what BHDAVE was saying.

Had a Toyota alternator that wasn't charging. Voltage below 12V

I replaced the brushes as they had just worn down so much (van had done 280k km).. cost me $25 to get new brushes in a brush holder. From local auto elec. The brushes are made to wear against the slip rings. You might need to just use ligth sandpaper on the slip rings.. But this worked a treat.

P.S Bearings were fine..

[TokyoTaxi]

FYI, when I replaced my altinator in my HR31 ( RB20DET ) I got a Bosch BXN 1231 for $280.00 and it bolted straight on. Just had to change some connection terminals

[driftmeister]

My voltage now stays at 13.8-13-9 with a/c ON and audio OFF. Will drop to 13.6-13.7 with audio ON. That's when the misfiring start again on idle. Planing to change the battery to a bigger capacity (60 or 70). Check Alternator charging & seem ok + healthy. U guys reckon its the battery size?