Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a series2 rs four s manual and had it up on a hoist the other day sussing out the exhaust to be built, when noticed some oil around the top of the transmission casing, upon further investigation we found that there was not much oil left in the box as it had all blown out around the gear shift mechanism and up into the shift lever boot.

we removed and cleaned the boot etc resealed and tightened down everthing we could drained the remainder of the transmission oil and replaced it along with a slick50 treatment, we also blew out the breather hose with compressed air and replaced.

i was just wondering if this was something i need to watch for in future or would it be a once off perhaps?

oxford

i have a series2 rs four s manual and had it up on a hoist the other day sussing out the exhaust to be built, when noticed some oil around the top of the transmission casing, upon further investigation we found that there was not much oil left in the box as it had all blown out around the gear shift mechanism and up into the shift lever boot.

we removed and cleaned the boot etc resealed and tightened down everthing we could drained the remainder of the transmission oil and replaced it along with a slick50 treatment, we also blew out the breather hose with compressed air and replaced.

i was just wondering if this was something i need to watch for in future or would it be a once off perhaps?

oxford

hey mate, ive got a rb26 and gtr 5 speed gearbox and ive had the same problems, and do u mean your gearbox fluid is low or the transfer case? as the shifter is actually into the transfer case. mine was abit of a problem a couple of times i didnt have the gearstick boot on and planted it flatout on the freeway and it started spewing out like a volcano into the car over my seats/dash, etc. and it did it about 3 times or so. the local workshop told me its a usual thing, as usually the boot stops it coming out. but that shop i dont use anymore and wouldnt trust them at all.

i was thinking the fluid is getting too hot and boiling, but i highly doubt it. maybe just the g-forces from planting it forces the oil into the gears and causes it to spray/splash up.

also the fluid in the transfer case is ATF and totally seperate to the Atessa container fluid mounted in the boot.

let us know if u find answers :P

cheers

Brad

cant say i really know what the case is but i never really looked that hard into it as the hoist it was sittin on at the time is of the local skyline nut who jus happens to work at an exhaust place, he said he had not seen this problem other than when a breather hose is blocked, even though when he blew the hose clear there was nothing appearing to be obstructing it? as for the oil boiling i don think it would be that unless there are some real bad bearings and by that stage you would know there was a real problem.

also i dunno if there would be any difference between series one and seriestwo mine has the neo engine and its my first car with a hair dryer so don really know much bout em, i have always had bikes over cars and still do i jus wanted a nice wagon.

i will endeavour to find out as much as i can from local nutters an pm you if i find anything out.

cheers

oxford

cant say i really know what the case is but i never really looked that hard into it as the hoist it was sittin on at the time is of the local skyline nut who jus happens to work at an exhaust place, he said he had not seen this problem other than when a breather hose is blocked, even though when he blew the hose clear there was nothing appearing to be obstructing it? as for the oil boiling i don think it would be that unless there are some real bad bearings and by that stage you would know there was a real problem.

also i dunno if there would be any difference between series one and seriestwo mine has the neo engine and its my first car with a hair dryer so don really know much bout em, i have always had bikes over cars and still do i jus wanted a nice wagon.

i will endeavour to find out as much as i can from local nutters an pm you if i find anything out.

cheers

oxford

no worries, the gearbox is the same in series 2 stagea, 32/33gtr,260rs (and i think the gts4)

ill see how mine goes in the next couple of weeks as im finally getting it back on the road after the engine build which has taken over 7 months or so.

owned the car since november 04 and only done about 1200km in it since :(

the joys of car ownership and modifying em ;)

This can be common on the track when the rubber boot is split. Scotsman lost heaps at PI through here, but with ess aggressive driving would occur over a longer period with less residual.

Just replace the boot with a standard item from Nissan and you'll be fine.

This can be common on the track when the rubber boot is split. Scotsman lost heaps at PI through here, but with ess aggressive driving would occur over a longer period with less residual.

Just replace the boot with a standard item from Nissan and you'll be fine.

good to hear its normal, and just replaced the boot the other day actually. :yes:

thanks

Brad

k thanks guys i was wondering if there was aproblem with the box being pressurised but if you reckon its normal i can handle that but will still be keeping an eye on it just the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
    • Yes, but no. I wouldn't want an IC7, because I think they are ugly, cramped and most of the displays I've seen are garish (and granted the last bit can probably be avoided). I wouldn't want to pay for the UC10. Probably wouldn't want to pay for the IC7, for that matter. And, it's an R32. I have cable drive speedo. Although, thinking about it, that's not a big obstacle, because at least I can throw the electronic sender back into the R33 box and then find a way to emulate the original (R32 or R33) speedo head's conversion of the saw-tooth AC speed signal into the square wave that the ECU wants, without the 1990s approach of hiding a gutted speedo head behind the dash. (another Arduino project, no doubt). I like the technical aspects of the big digital dashes, but I aesthetically and just general originality and feel-wise, like the original dash enough. More? Yes, more. If I had a UC10 I'd want to make the dash look as close to the original one as possible most of the time, and only flash up "DANGER TO MANIFOLD" when it needed to. But the other aspect of the 3-DIN slot digi gauge that I'm contemplating is that I'm a tinkerer and can barely resist a project, even if I don't need to add another to the list of unfinished ones. And I think there's enough precedent of others out there that have proven which equipment works (ie, is not washed out, or slow, or prone to failure, or all the other problems that can afflict such a project). I'm not quite enough of a micro-controller tech head that I know the best way to approach all of these decisions, and so striking out on my own to achieve it years ago would have led to unhappiness. But now, it seems like a project that I can actually achieve on the first or second go, with only a few sleepless nights. And that's why I'm actively thinking about it now. I would much rather have a thing in my car that I made from more-or-less scratch that does what I want, rather than something that someone else made that does some of what I want, not other stuff I want, and/or annoys me in some fashion. If I'm going to be annoyed, I need it to be my fault, so I know who to blame, and who needs to fix it. As an example of that - I have surveillance cameras at home. No, I did not go buy a kit with a DVR and 4 or 8 or 16 off-the-shelf cameras in a kit. No, I did not want to use any sort of could service to record or access the feeds and recordings from outside the house. No, I bought my chosen cameras directly (from China, lol) and built the DVR myself using a couple of different (ie, this was attempt 1 and attempt 2 to get a system I liked) software packages, running on Linux, with the server being a virtual machine running Proxmox. I found a way to offload the image recognition part of the system to a dedicated AI processing board (a Coral TPU, for anyone who cares) with the hardware passed through to the server on the VM, motion detection offloaded to the GPU, all storage is local in the home network, accessible from outside via my own self-hosted VPN). All done so that I could seal off the Chinese cameras in their own network where they can't access the internet and dial home to the CCP and backdoor my network. All things that you can't have if you do what is commercially available. And even with all the f**king around it has still cost a fraction of what it would cost to buy commercially.
    • ..could be worse... but out here, renting private affords some luxuries ...we've even been told the Sept dateline isn't critical, and I'd rather move stuff in the cool of winter, than slogging it out in the heat. Recall we were talking about the million dollar view this place has?...that's what he got for it... (won't be so nice when the quarry happens at the back in the future...lol..)... ...cool, I'll stick the wiper motor in a wee box...umm.... the pinny is GLX trim ~ I think that's about as close as it gets to Silo spec when it comes to the S2 pinny...ie; electric mirrors etc etc...dunno about the trip computer/wiring...I do electronics repair, I'd be willing to take a look at it for you. As you saw, all the dash is there in that car..and thinking about it, it'd be easier to pull the whole center section out, rather than just the ashtray and rails, but your call...
×
×
  • Create New...