Jump to content
SAU Community

Castor Rods - Adjustable Or Just Standard?

arbess
 Share

Recommended Posts

arbess Experienced

arbess

Posted
Posted

Hello readers,

i own a r32 gtr. I need to replace my castor rods due to wear.

I have the option to replace them with standard

OR

replace them with aftermarket ones - adjustable.

I drive to work in my gtr, i don't drift (im under the assumption that adjustable castor rods are for drifting). I use my car to make an appearance, i like simple smooth driving.

What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare?

2. Will it be rough on the roads?

3. What is the downside to adjustables?

Some feedback on this would be great.

Thanks.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare? No.

2. Will it be rough on the roads? No - you won't even notice them.

3. What is the downside to adjustables? They cost money and the rose joints can suffer from wear.

Some feedback on this would be great.

If you just want them for bling quotient probably best not to bother as no one other than the bloke who does the wheel alignment will ever notice them.

Thanks.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well the downsides if you use the adjustable rods with rose joints are:

1. they will be a little harsher as there is no longer a rubber bush

2. they will need to be checked periodically to make sure the adjustment part hasnt slipped/worked loose

3. they will eventually wear out (much faster than a bush).

4. if you wind in a lot of caster the steering will be heavier.

5. they cost more than getting (second hand) standard replacements

6. they are illegal on a road registered car.

They do have advantages though:

1. sharper turn in

2. steering wheel self centres much more quickly/aggressively

3. you can adjust the caster to however you like it.

If you are happy with the handling now then i would just replace them with stockies. If you would like some more adjustment, then go for the adjustables.

BTW, if you do need a set of stock rods i have a pair in my garage that i would gladly exchange for some cash.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hello readers,

i own a r32 gtr. I need to replace my castor rods due to wear.

I have the option to replace them with standard

OR

replace them with aftermarket ones - adjustable.

I drive to work in my gtr, i don't drift (im under the assumption that adjustable castor rods are for drifting). I use my car to make an appearance, i like simple smooth driving.

What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare?

2. Will it be rough on the roads?

3. What is the downside to adjustables?

Some feedback on this would be great.

Thanks.

Hi, firstly caster (radius) rods don't usually wear, the bushes (at the front) wear but not the radius rods themselves. My suggestion would be to replace the worn out, standard, rubber, radius rod bushes with nw, adjustable, polyurethane bushes. For around $100, plus a bit of pressing anda a whel alignment, they are a legal way of achieving caster adjustment.

:biggrin: cheers :biggrin:

Edited by Sydneykid
arbess Experienced

arbess

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks dudes. I appreciate your help on this matter. I'm more swinging to just replacing the castor rods bushes with the neo-prene ones at Fulcrum. I suppose with all that wear and troubles there are for adjustables, it would be un-economical.

Thanks again champs.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

I actually went to inquire about the same problem and was told no point gettin the adjustable rods.. But the adjustable bushes with a minor mod, where it adjusts it self, when you turn the wheel..

all up plus wheel alignment-$300... is that expensive or gd price?

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

Some time ago now I installed polyurethane castor rod bushes from Pedders for ~$260 installed. These were offset to increase castor 1.5 degrees either side.

I then replaced the bushes with adjustable rods, so I could dial in more castor and have it infinitely adjustable, should the car bump any gutters etc. These cost $250 in a group buy from UAS and if anything were more comfortable than the poly bushes. This is one of the best handling mods I have done.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
With a 0.75 deg increase in castor, can you really notice the difference?

Whilteline only quote 0.75 degree increase with their bushes.. seems almost nothing??

That's compared to the static reading from new and a conservative one at that. Most cars have distorted standard bushes and have lost some caster over time. I have seen a 1.5 degree increase in caster many times.

Then there is the dynamic caster, the polyurethane bushes distort a lot less when the car is on the move than the silicone filled standard rubber bushes.

Bottom line, the difference is very noticeable.

:biggrin: cheers :biggrin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...