Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Again, title is self explanatory.

Just hooked up a 34 intercooler for my 32, and I'm wondering how hard it is to fit, and how much power

increase I can expect.

Can't imagine it cools a lot more than stock 32 ic, but should be better flow and able to handle 12psi without

any trouble?

Your thoughts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107406-r34-stock-intercooler-on-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hiya mate - it'll take a lot of re-routing of your pipe work as the end-tank fitting face differently on the R34 SMIC to the R32's one.

Here's the pictures of whats needed

R32 SMIC and piework

snakeyoldthing.jpg

R34 SMIC new modded Pipework

nicenewthing.jpg

Cut a new hole here for a Cold Air Feed!

nicenewhole.jpg

Hmm, now it seems like too much effort, might be easier to get a normal intercooler and get custom pipes

made up! I don't like the idea of having the modify an end tank.

So much for THAT idea! :P

HOw about this for an r33??

Much modifications required to fit the 34 cooler?? Anyone does this before?? cheers for the help..

A R34 intercooler bolts straight up to a R33 / series 1 Stagea. :happy:

fmic kit from just jap costs about $500 these days.

why would you bother?

kit includes all pipes, fmic, rubber hoses, clamps, screws bolts etc..

just gotta cut a hole in your battery tray and trim back the fan blades a little.

A few reasons why I would bother:

Less lag from using a SMIC.

Less attraction to car by police and thieves.

Nothing in front of my radiator.

No cutting of the front bumper required.

NO cutting of engine bay or fan blade required.

Factory Nissan item so it's not defectable.

I only wanna run 12psi on stock RB20 Turbo so I don't need any bigger!

A few reasons why I would bother:

Less lag from using a SMIC.

Less attraction to car by police and thieves.

Nothing in front of my radiator.

No cutting of the front bumper required.

NO cutting of engine bay or fan blade required.

Factory Nissan item so it's not defectable.

I only wanna run 12psi on stock RB20 Turbo so I don't need any bigger!

lag is not that noticeable.

spray it black and put mesh in front

my water temps with fmic is no different then without

so you have to chop a bit why the big hassle?

you take off a few mm of each fan blade.. how is that bad.

it's an upgrade of a part that was supplied by the factory so it's NOT defectable.

12 psi is 2 over stock.. stick with your stock cooler then.

and believe me.. it never ends at 12 psi with stock turbo..

you will always want more and then have to do it all over for the cooler later on.

but don't let me talk you out of a waste of money.

Mate, if thats how you like to play, go nuts. But half the things you just said scared me, and the other half made me wonder what your understanding of car modifications is like - no offence...

I mean, "it's an upgrade of a part that was supplied by the factory so it's NOT defectable". Isn't a HKS SSQV an upgrade of stock BOV, and isn't a carbon bonnet and upgrade of a stock bonnet?

Come on man...

If you are not going for major upgrades (bigger turbo, etc) then R34 SMIC would be sufficient. But like GTST said FMIC full kits are so cheap these days and all the pipings already done and can be installed with few modifications/cuttings. Ask yourself the hassles of custome pipings and modifying endtank would justify the saving you get from having a R34 SMIC?

Also have to think of the fact that with a Nissan intercooler, you know what you're getting. But with the aftermarket jobs you're seeing on eBay and on the forums, who knows how they're made or what they're made of?

Don't get me wrong, I'd love a nice FMIC, but if I did get one, it would have to be a Trust or Blitz setup. And I don't fancy spending the odd $1300+ postage for those, and in any event, dont need something that can handle so much power.

All I'm looking to do after the intercooler is split dump and front pipe, then up the boost to 12psi. That's as quick as she's gonna get while I own it.

Thanks anyway tho,

Adrian.

thats different mate.

Carbon fibre bonnets are frowned on, because of the way they shatter in an event of an accident and go into splinters. Blow off valves are not popular with police because of their general increase in volume.

I agree with gtst, if it matters. Not that I really care but, as a rule if your modifying your skyline, you will get bored of your current mods. When you do, your 34 cooler will be the first thing out the door.

If you dont think you will get bored go for it. I said I was going to keep my 33 standard. Then my mate bought a gtr, then another bought a wrx sti. Plus its a selling point if you sell your car having a front mount.

My hybrid one cost me $800 dollors through a mate at repco. He installed it in about 2hours!

Sounds like someone is a tight ass!

"Sounds like someone is a tight ass!", how right you are! :starwars:

But for good reason, I think. If I start going nuts (e.g. FMIC, RB25 turbo with rebuild, fuel pump and pressure regulator, PFC with controller, fancy bride seats and GTR nose), it's all gonna cost WAAAAY too much, and I'll be just like every other sucker trying to sell a GTS-T they spent $20,000 on for $12,000. I'd rather just do R34 ic upgrade, full turbo back exhaust, and cruise it around like that.

Then get something like an Evo VI or FD RX-7 a few years down the track with the money I didn't spend on my GTS-T.

Just a thought...

meh - I had a R34 GTT intercooler as an upgrade from the R33 unit. Had it on the car for around 3 months only.

Then bought a 2nd hand Apex'i intercooler off ebay direct from Japan, cost $500 delivered. Awesome condition, meant for the 180SX but does the job.

Made up the pipes needed (it was a side return feed, so that all the pipes go back thru the original 'factory supplied' holes - NO hassle) from a pipe kit again off ebay.

All up cost $650 plus time to cut the pipes to length, didnt have to cut anything on the car at all. So maybe look for an intercooler with return feed pipes (ie one off the side & the other going back behind the 'cooler; see pic).

Easy, and has the potential to support the car when I have a hiflow turbo job finalised. Easy.

post-18854-1141020885.jpg

Edited by bwilkeson

Nice, I LOVE apexi intercoolers. You got it really cheap too.

I got the R34 Intercooler with the airduct and all the bits and pieces for $70 though, so I can't afford to complain.

...but it's no Apexi =(

Nice, I LOVE apexi intercoolers. You got it really cheap too.

I got the R34 Intercooler with the airduct and all the bits and pieces for $70 though, so I can't afford to complain.

...but it's no Apexi =(

$70 is remarkebly cheap! All you need is to find a cheap metal fab place and get them to chop the inlet off and weld it on the other side... Then knock yourself up some mounts. Might get away with stocko one if ur tricky...

There are many god reasons for this to make sense over a cheaper and bigger kit. I.e less lag for stock turbo on 12 pound.. Lighter, Better quality, stealth, nad not too mention cheaper when fitted for like $120! makes a ARC sidemount look pretty stupid for $350

Oh and if you didn't know Johnny these flow 35% better than stock R33 coolers..

yeah good point Johnny.

My car has had over 15k spent on it and i wont be getting much off that back.

However it is a very fast and nice car to drive with a good stereo.

But yeah, sometimes i question whether or not i should have used that money and bought a lightly modded 33 gtr instead.

Mate, if thats how you like to play, go nuts. But half the things you just said scared me, and the other half made me wonder what your understanding of car modifications is like - no offence...

I mean, "it's an upgrade of a part that was supplied by the factory so it's NOT defectable". Isn't a HKS SSQV an upgrade of stock BOV, and isn't a carbon bonnet and upgrade of a stock bonnet?

Come on man...

hahahaha

if you think that changing the factory small heat sink to an aftermarket larger heat sink is the same as changing the factory plumback bov to an aftermarket atmo venting bov, then my advice is wasted.

it's your car mate.. I was simply trying to save you some money and time.

all the best.

$70 is remarkebly cheap! All you need is to find a cheap metal fab place and get them to chop the inlet off and weld it on the other side... Then knock yourself up some mounts. Might get away with stocko one if ur tricky...

There are many god reasons for this to make sense over a cheaper and bigger kit. I.e less lag for stock turbo on 12 pound.. Lighter, Better quality, stealth, nad not too mention cheaper when fitted for like $120! makes a ARC sidemount look pretty stupid for $350

Oh and if you didn't know Johnny these flow 35% better than stock R33 coolers..

Yes that is dirt cheap. A month ago a well known Jap spares shop in lansvale quoted me $350 for an R34 GTT intercooler.

Edited by Gengis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...