Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, I can get all sorts of Jap parts dirt cheap.

When I read about how much people pay for parts, I laugh and cringe at the same time!

Hey, drift limo, what did you mean by this:

"All you need is to find a cheap metal fab place and get them to chop the inlet off and weld it on the other side..."

Do you mean i have to make a new ic pipe for the inlet side, as thats what I'm looking to have done.

Don't want to cut into the endtanks or anything!

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah, I can get all sorts of Jap parts dirt cheap.

When I read about how much people pay for parts, I laugh and cringe at the same time!

If you can get them dirt cheap, then why not use them...you get what you pay for. If your only keeping your car short term then do the things that give you the best results, exhaust from cat back and a filter. Leave it at that...and save your money.

...yeh, thanks, it snice ot know im a sucker because i enjoy my car :starwars:

...LOL, sell your R32 now then. If your not part of the brotherhood/suckers then :)

Your either with us or against us...as for your schmansy Evos/rotors etc, sure you could use an neon battery operated elctric toothbrush... but real men chew on the bones of bulls they have slayed with their own hands...you will find us behind the wheel of our GTSTs, and real R32 owners/lovers never sell them, we get buried in them or crash them in fiery infernos :)

LOL, in case your not cringing, if i add it up over 5 years of ownership, im guessing im staring at about 30-40k on my car, thats maintenance and mods :biggrin:

R34 side mount...seriously, if your thinking short term with the car, i wouldnt nother with anything other then exhaust and filter..., what bar does your car have, perhaps look at a Supra SMIC then it could be worthwhile given the fact that you get little airflow through that part of the car

What planet did you come from?! :starwars:

What planet did you come from?! :)

no idea, but im loving these new smilies, just need to rant a little so that i can use then :)

From what i have read the R34 GTT cooler takes a little bit of tweaking to fit, so why not use a thicker core like that from a Supra :confused: Probably cheaper to boot, and provided with a bit of ducting may get a reasonable result as little MR2 have to make do with similar setups :starwars:

  • 1 month later...

I have used an R34GTT SMIC on an R32GTST and it made 205 rwkw, no problems, all day, everyday. It's an easy and cheap mod and I was very happy with double the standard power. TargaTas did the same and he achieved ~220 rwkw (his engine was fresh).

We get very glib on SAU about 200 rwkw not being enough, and you not trying if you don't have at least 400 rwkw. Well 200 rwkw is plenty enough for lots of people and it makes an R32GTST pretty damn fast. So I have this opinion that if the guy wants 200 rwkw then we should help him how to get there for the least cost. Not tell him he should be aiming for 300 rwkw.

So to answer the question on how ottfit an R34GTT intercooler to an R32GTST, you have two choices;

1. Modify the intercooler pipework in the engine bay (as per page 1 of this thread) so that it fits up to the R34GTT intercooler rear outlet.

2. Cut off (from the rear) and reweld (onto the front) the pipework on the R34GTT intercooler outlet tank. All I did was take my R32GTST intercooler and the R34GTT intercooler along to my local aluminium welder (in the yellow pages). I told him I want this (the R34GTT intercooler) to have the outlet on the rear just like this (the R32GTST intercooler). Cost me $50 and he did it while I waited.

Hope that was of some help

:( cheers :(

Gary.

I'm interested to know what sort of intake temps were had using the r34 cooler on a rb20 making 200rwkw all day, every day.

to me that says it worked well at 200rwkw being used on a circuit where you are on boost and using those 200rwkw frequently.

I assume this was on your r32 back when it had the rb20 in it, and I recal you had a fair few temp readings for it like before turbo, after turbo and after intercooler..

Johnny Cash,

if you are planning on staying with the stock turbo and running only a couple of extra psi boost, I'd forget upgrading to a 34 SMIC and just put a water spray on it. They make a huge difference (have one on my rex) and for my money are better BFYB over a 34 SMIC upgrade...

my 2c..

cheers

Brett

Gary.

I'm interested to know what sort of intake temps were had using the r34 cooler on a rb20 making 200rwkw all day, every day.

to me that says it worked well at 200rwkw being used on a circuit where you are on boost and using those 200rwkw frequently.

I assume this was on your r32 back when it had the rb20 in it, and I recal you had a fair few temp readings for it like before turbo, after turbo and after intercooler..

Yep, I have the actual numbers somewhere. The R34GTT intercooler was around 68% efficient for cooling at ~200 rwkw. That compares pretty favourably with a standard R32GTR intercooler on the same engine which was 72% efficient at similar power levels. At 200 rwkw and 7,250 rpm, the R34GTT intercooler (and pipework) had 1.5 psi restriction at 1.3 bar. The R32GTR intercooler, with larger pipework and similar power, was 0.75 psi. So even the airflow wasn't too bad.

That's why I am using an R34GTT SMIC on the Stagea, I know it won't have any problems with 200 4wkw.

:) cheers :(

and for any one interested ...the r34 gtt side mount is a straight swap into a rb20det cefiro .....

its involves a tiny bit of cutting ......(like 20mm out of the corner of the stock bumper and removing some of the splash guard) Basically you use the stock mount positions and brackets and everything lines up fine.

And definately a noticable difference in power which i sorted wasnt expecting. Mods - Stock exhaust with panel filter and 11-12 psi boost.

Edited by Resin

They are fine intercoolers, but are intended for 7psi on a stock rb25 turbo no more... remember nissan produced intercoolers on the gtst/gtt's to be able to deal with the heat/pressure produced from factory. I in no means want to argue with Sydneykid as he knows his stuff very well but for the price of a fmic and the safety it brings with it i wouldnt consider messing around with a side mount.

I think you'll notice after a few taps on the accelerator the small little smic will get quiet heat soaked on 12psi on a normal day!

Gary is that after its been running for awhile on the dyno... or after you've given it stick say 4-5 times in a row? As thats when i would of thought the smaller GT-T cooler would suffer heatsoak?

Edited by jazza08

I think having a FMIC would be more of a safety concern than having an upgraded SMIC. Look at all those idiots out there cutting up their front bumpers, supports etc... that has to be detrimental for safety.

When I get around to it i'll definately be putting an r34 gtt cooler on my r32 gtst, it just makes sense, especially if ur not chasing 250kW (which is a lot of money more than 180-200kW.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...